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Yeah new sender and pump. I dont think reg is available separate, and to be fair pump wears out over time so if mileage is getting up there it will be due.
Starting issue is most likely due to weak intank fuel pressure regulator on the fuel pump. Fuel pump only primes on 2nd on/off of ign, so first attempt without prime will be rough start or conk out. Wont be related to alternator, its just coincidence.
The beam is an odd one, bolted stubs but they appear to be massive bolt centres compared to mk3 clio & mk3 meg. 5x108 stud pattern on kangoo same as meg but m12 bolts instead of m14.
Ive measured up the kangoo stub axle/bearing and they are the same 30mm bearing/stub axle as ph2 225/r26, the...
Not updated this for ages.
Kangoo has not moved much but have took it for a run out every couple of weeks.
Croft
Daily
Parked in underground parking at a local Asda. Bit arse nippy when i forgot its taller than a car but luckily low enough to not be an issue😅
Small loads only. Its...
I also use velcro 3m coins on the r26. Plates have been off a few times and no issues/still solid, plates have never moved with heat or 150+ mph on the autobahns.
Warm up the adhesive with a hairdryer prior to fitting. Goes sticky as fook.
Slight change for me, its likely i will be in one car this year. The mrs is having an operation on her foot next week and wont be able to drive.
Prob be the r26 for full day.
Thats my biggest fear on a clio, latch failing and bonnet doing the roof/screen in.
No way would i be running about with the bonnet on the safety. Crazy taking the risk, prob placebo anyway.
Non Sport alternator splashguard is different, but can be made to fit sport grill as i done it to my dci years ago. I cant remember exactly how i done it, possibly a zip tie job :LOL:
Had the same issue on meg brembos with ds1.11 on our blue meg. Pads had a little bit too much clearance which is ok when used as intended but noisy for road use/slow braking.
Refitted oem pads never heard it since.
Just reread post again. The gripper diffs clunk like fcuk when turning on the street when the gear oil is cold especially at full lock or tighter bends.
Gets slightly better when warmed up a bit, you sure its not that?
Save your money unless going 400+hp, stock inlet is not a restriction.
Put the money towards vag or ndo gearbox conversion instead. That will be more beneficial in the long run.
Masking tape and 1mm cuting disc is ok. The shears are epic though if doing loads of cuts as gives a very clean sharp cut where grinder gets a little bit of an edge on it, and you can cut them in situ with the shears.
I use these ones paid about £15 a few year back...
If its your first time using the ptfe then buy a set of large electric cable shears to cut it. Makes life very easy when fitting.
Also avoid rubber like the plague if running inside the car. It omits fuel fumes and stinks
Use ptfe/nylon overbraided an line. Its hard plastic with overbraid and never fails. Basically more or less same as oem with braid. Torques brand again is fine. And remember to order the correct fittings to suit.
Recommend using the nylon finish or the stainless braid with the clear rubber...
Id personally renew the lot straight back to the tank in an6 pipe and use one of these on the sender. It might fit the connectors on the plastic pipes too but unsure
https://ebay.us/m/i4zDRm
Stick with stock bushes if the rest is standard.
If your on aftermarket suspension and want it to be a bit sharper, powerflex black. Expect more vibration etc.