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Im a bit of a parts hoarder but pays off sometimes. Lockup needs a big clearout can barely get in:LOL:

Updates. Blue clio back in daily use. Its been running great, no starting issues and none of the low idle carry on, 100% confident that its sorted. A few posts back i touched upon spinning the egr to essentially blank it off whilst eliminating things causing low idle. You can only get one bolt...

Very lucky mate. Stainless sensor in mild steel was not the best combo but was shocked when it recut the thread after some working forwards and backwards.

Black water/moisture out of the exhaust is normal when engine is cold, its just condensation.

It will run ok with the post cat lambda like that, i ran a lambda cheater on mine to basically restrict the gasflow to nothing with decat to try and keep the eml off on stock map. Without remap it will log a fault but doesnt affect performance. Most get it mapped out with a remap/decat.

Id imagine its 8mm same as megane.

Replace the short flexible section with high pressure fuel hose, cut it off the fuel rail connector carefully and same at the other end. Use cohline 2240 R9 spec and proper fuel hose clamps. Dont use cheap fuel hose or you will be doing it again next year.

Bin the struts. Not worth repairing.

You will need to stick a new bearing in as current one will fall to pieces when removing the hub flange.

Updates. Blue dci is running again. Plugged in the new fuel rail pressure sensor which cleared the df127 and live data showed correct readings with engine off. Also ac pressure registers 3.5bar again now the sensor is receiving correct voltage. Changing the rail sensor looked to be easy and i...

Ns2r are horrendous especiallyin the wet, avoid them mate.

It wont work in that case. You would be better off with a proper standalone ecu and fit wheel speed sensors for proper launch control.

You will need a speed sensor for it to work. I believe its very basic, lowering the idle rev limit.

Looks decent, how much did you give for it? I was offered a 14reg one in ly for £4500 a couple of weeks ago. Was tidy too.

Seen this pop up for sale a few times and always thought it looked decent. In for updates. Dont worry about running no dumpvalve, they do nothing apart from make noise and leak. None of my cars have one on.

Cheers @Une_Baguette thats a good help. I was just winging it the other night and disconnecting things on a whim. Didnt even consider throttle pedal! Did see fault change when rail sensor was unplugged so poss that. Currently been dying from man flu for a couple of days so not looked at it yet...

Had same before xmas, seems to have calmed down.

Just noticed that refrigerant pressure says 0.0bar too and that was pressured up fine recently. Will also disconnect the ac pressure sensor at the weekend to see if thats affecting sensor voltages.

Updates. Blue dci failed to commence yesterday. Replaced imv on the hp fuel pump on sat as process of elimination and still had the occasional low idle. I then span egr to stop it egr'ing to eliminate it, marked improvements in performance and engine sound better albeit stinking of diesel on...

I got the mega pliers from Lidl last week, great for the money. The nutsert kit looks good too, assume sold out in ours as didnt see any.

Need to pin the crank and set timing again on oem 172 non keyed pulley. Leave it until next cambelt job.

Engine needs load on it to get the turbo working. Drive it and see what pressure it makes at full throttle. No idea if the icarsoft can datalog but you want something to datalog ideally Smoke test or pressure boost circuit for leaks.

Usually need a puller for the wipers so saved you some aggro

Check for cracks and gouges on hoses, replace if any seen. If all look ok keep sending it. Keep an eye on the oem spring type hose clamps as they almost rotted through on mine, replaced them before they failed. My dci is 197 thousand miles/22 years old. Original hoses not too worried, done 375...

Can get them even cheaper if you sniff round mate. I think i paid £15 delivered for mine, its successfully repaired loads of bits. Add a bit of epoxy resin over the finished repair and pretty strong. Great for small repairs on bumpers etc, do it from inside so not seen. Just beware staple melts...

The hot staples work great for plastic repairs if you want a strong repair on the bumper. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/394145286191?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=ebmu2wx0qem&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=sQrVQpEdQKi&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

Once its gone flat itll generally never be as good again. Kill switch or pop the negative off if laid up for a bit between trackdays. I use bosch personally, no issues.

Heater leak wont cause lumpy running but will explain coolant loss. What injectors have you fitted, oem or aftermarket? Might be a plug or lead? Compression test too. Id prob avoid the local garage unless very good, too many are crap at diagnosing anything.

Id be tempted to take it to a specialist to check as headgasket fail pretty rare on these. Id take it to Aw Motorworks for diag and repair. I had coolant loss and inconclusive block test on mine. Pressured up cooling system with plugs out and nothing. Heater matrix was leaking. I have also had...

Fix current one, sometimes its better the devil you know and spec sounds decent enough. List of repairs is not bad, about the same as most prob need these days. Has headgasket been officially diagnosed, i.e. evidence of coolant in cylinders?