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You will need to replace the lot. Not locks. ECU, uch, key fob and decoder ring. If you have rain sensor/auto lights your uch needs to be n3

Got to be worth a punt for someone unless it's got asbestos in. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/garage-shed-/141318866728?pt=UK_Garage_Equipment_Tools_Tool_Boxes_Storage&hash=item20e742c728

Forgot to mention. Depending on how you get the box out. If you're dropping the subframe get atleast the 2 front captive nuts replace, £7 or so. The cages will be ruined. That way you should just need the box oil. You really couldn't be much further away from me, otherwise I'd offer to help...

I haven't read the posts since last time but he's be arrested for false imprisonment or something http://www.sevenoakschronicle.co.uk/Revealed-Tonbridge-man-named-Brands-Hatch/story-21242850-detail/story.html#tIuO17Qe4mqpVmD0.01 http://www.kent.police.uk/news/latest_news/140616_brands_hatch.html

It struggles whether hot or cold. I've replace the pump now with one from a reputable breakers. Pressure on this pump is higher but still is struggling to get to the levels needed to start. When it does start it runs lumpier than my clio. Noticed there was quite a bit of air coming back in the...

Yeah you could do that, just need to make sure you get the right suffix JC5 129/130 etc. Mine was done by agency and the turn around was less than a week. If you can find one at a decent price then I'd send it off. Couple of years back now but the receipt was for £285 with bearings syncros and...

Diffs do make a noise when it's running on stands. You just can't normally hear it above anything else. in car video will be best :)

Release bearing makes an entirely different noise to the one described. You wouldn't be able to hear one when driving as there isn't load on it apart from gear changes. If you jack the front up you'll probably hear all sorts of noises like the diff. Clio boxes do make a slight whuring; even...

This is my driveshaft changing guide http://www.cliosport.net/forum/showthread.php?740747-ABS-Kicking-in-at-low-speeds-related-to-rear-brakes&highlight=Driveshaft

Just fit a normal 172 driveshaft, they aren't hard to come by. this sounds like a gearbox all over though. Everything you've said sounds like what happened to my lupo. One day I put it in reverse and it made the most horrible noises, suddenly was 20 times louder than it had been. Rebuild sorted.

It was a 4 hour endurance

Marc jones, likely a crazy price. get some gtechniq c4

Paprika123 no idea buddy. I was just browsing through facebook and a couple of people I know seemed to know of him.

Here you go chaps. https://www.facebook.com/zac.copson?fref=hovercard Shame, brands is a great place to get easy access to the pits and this is only going to make it far more difficult in the future.

Had this in one of ours. 15A radio fuse.

a piece of the plastic mech might have snapped. if you take the door card off you'll see how it works. Can easily be dismantled.

There aren't many left that are that original so I'd give it a complete refresh and no more :)

Dci or petrol? The dash definitely needs programming to work. Cruise doesn't go through uch so that's fine. My girlfriends ph3 dci needed the dash programming but the cruise worked before that. I can send you my clip if you leave me a deposit

Have you wired in the ECU side of the wires. It should work if you have but just not show on the display

@roYa it is likely the cruise control function needs activating in the ECU using clip. If the car can't get a decent speed reading from the ABS it also won't work. Mine used to do this a little, new ABS rings made the problem go away.

Here to confirm the sunvisor ports a3 is ground b3 is 12v feed

Yep but clearly needs to be redone. I was disappointed to say the least! Looks better now the car is dirty ;) Sun visors were a dos to wire up. In the green plug which connects the roof loom to the dash loom there are feeds for the electric sunroof (go via UCH) which you can take out and put...

Quick, get it all on there!

if you want just the flap off instead of the mechanism you can remove it from the outside. Open the flap then then pull it outwards from the far, use a screwdriver to pop the clip off the mounting. You'll see what I mean when you pull it out.

Think that's the road although not entirely sure. Gave a smile!

@HMS Derv Destroyer Pretty sure I did it right. Blocked off the feed back to the pump so no air was taken in. Just ran the car with the pipe on the return nozzle. Engine was cold. Does that make a difference? Had a google and can't find the correct method or specs so that would be ever so...

Did the leak off test today like this Ran it for 4 minutes with it just above 1k From right to left injector 1....... 106 injector 2....... 108 injector 3....... 117 injector 4....... 97

Will give the leak off another go tomorrow with a little blocking off. Don't see the problem with second hand injectors. I know they're a fine piece of engineering but with the pressure they have through them they can't be that fragile

Right chaps. Tried to do a leak off and it stalled after a minute. Starts much easier with brake cleaner. from just the turning over it looks like each injector is giving back about the same as the other although I'm sure you can appreciate its difficult to tell

Cranks at the same rate as the Clio, it's even got a juicier new battery. Best way to perform leak off? pipes off the returns and hang some bottle off them, never done one. I'll need to send the pump back if it's busted so can't take it apart. Sold the old one now! that was worse though :)