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Unfortunately not, I need it for my Williams plus I still need to find another one for my other Valver 🫣🤣

A smack with a hammer & punch usually does the trick to remove it as the heat from the powder coating oven will ruin it It needs to be pressed in fully before going on the car, a big bolt, nut, socket and washer to wind it in will do the trick

MK1 and MK2 subframes are completely different so you can't really use them to compare Yes that bush is supposed to be there, god knows why Renault did it but it is kind of important - causes an annoying knock when it's knackered but is an absolute ball ache to diagnose - so you deffo need to...

I can't remember who it was but I vaguely remember talking to someone on here that owned it as I knew the bloke who originally built it 🤔

That actually looks surprisingly decent, I've not seen any of the ally rads that have got the holes drilled into it for fitting the standard fan brackets to before. Williams & Valver rads are the exact same part

That sounds normal to me tbh, they're only going to be doing internal hydraulic stuff on the rack and cleaning up the outside to refurb it so stuff attached to the outside of it is only going to end up in the bin

Gear linkage - Remove the whole thing, it's only connected at the bottom of the gearstick by a single 13mm nut. It's also really easy to damage when you're fiddling with the subframe as it's only a thin walled hollow tube, plus you'll have a good opportunity to fit new bushes to the bottom of...

It's when you don't see rust like that on a Mk1 you ought to be more suspicious that it's rotten as fcuk

Does it have a MAP sensor? Only ask as it's a fairly common thing on the 16v/Williams to have a similar issue if the MAP sensor is faulty, unplugged or has a leak in the vacuum hose for it

I don't know anything about it apart from it would have been worth around £1,000 - £1,500 at absolute max in 2008 so the damage to make it a Cat D will be pretty minor. My Valver was written off as Cat D in 2008 & the cost to fix & make it mint again was £600 so there's no need to be too...

Not sure if it's what you're after but I found these for sale https://www.facebook.com/share/p/1EEj8UYgf7/

Depends what wishbones you're using tbh, if they're Williams, new ones don't really exist so refreshing them is certainly the best option. If they're Valver arms then I'd personally just get new ones as they're readily available & not obscenely priced as they were also used on the lower spec...

That'll be Peter, him & his Mrs are both Clio freaks and they're in Newport plus there's @RichValver a bit further along the M4 in Swansea

What parts do you need and where abouts are you? There's a fair few people scattered about the country (Essex, Reading, South Wales, Warrington/Manchester, Leicestershire/Derbyshire/Nottinghamshire) with hoardes of Mk1 Clio stuff so should be able to point you in the right direction

Impressive thread bump 😲 Have you got a link to the video? I've never seen it but I think there's a possibility I might recognise something. There's a guy on the Williamsclio.co.uk forum that was in Wales and I think his name is Gareth & on the forum he's MAXIBOY I could be talking utter...

Kinda wish I'd seen this thread sooner to tell you that it's possible to remove the engine with the loom still attached to it 🫣 It's just 2 plugs in the relay box, rad/fan connections and a couple of earth connections to undo. The wiring bundle for the ecu just needs to be unclipped from the...

You can easily just use a cereal box for that rocker gasket tbh 🤣 it wont matter what you choose Parts wise, the F7P & Clio F7R are pretty much identical apart from the sump pan, crank, pistons, cams and the valves The spanner in the works is that the Megane F7R is half identical and half...

Yeah that's the one, they also sell the front & rear jacking points for the Clio as well

Outer sills don't exist but the lower spec ones simply need to be cut down to size as they're shorter on the 16v/Williams so that's relatively easy There's a company on ebay (can't remember the name but will have to dig about to find it) that does R5 bits & bobs and the inner sills they make for...

You want to click on C57D for the Valver or C57M for the Williams https://www.catcar.info/renault/?lang=en&l=c3Q9PTIwfHxzdHM9PXsiMTAiOiJNb2RlbCIsIjIwIjoiQ2xpbyAocGhhc2UgMSAmIDIpIn18fG5vcHJzPT0xMjYwIiwiMTI2Mnx8YnJhbmQ9PVJlbmF1bHQ%3D

@Williamspaul

Have you removed the alternator belt to try turning it over? Only ask as I've seen seized up alternators, pas pumps and the tensioner pulley stopping them being turned over by hand. Another thing I'd do is remove the rocker cover and the distributor then pour some oil all over the cams & lifters...

It's a bit hard to tell but they might be bigger discs as well, standard size is 259mm and I think there were 4 different size discs available with the Hi-Spec caliper kits back in the day so measuring those discs on it will be useful info for selling the calipers

Get Magnetti Marelli as they're OEM but just make sure they're genuine & from a reputable seller as there's lots of fakes about

I'd say have a look at a policy of it's own for the fiesta with zero NCB Only say that as all my NCB (10 years) is used for my 172 Cup with limited mileage & I'm paying £193 but my daily is a normal 172, 10k miles a year and it's £230 with zero NCB - so it might not be as bad as you think 🤷‍♂️

Depends what the end result you're after looks wise is tbh, on my Williams I was after as close to OEM finish as possible so went with paint But on my track car I wasn't bothered about looks/finish & wanted something durable & cheap so went with gloss black powdercoat

I don't actually know tbh, all I do know is that's it's a period correct race spec engine as he does hill climbs & sprints in it so it's got to be the right spec for the class he runs in

At my workshop and the guy next door is driving about in this