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I've did the same yesterday - I did a mock up in cardboard and then cut out the plastic to the shape , made it a lot easier but long winded. Not a bad job I thought .

The 3 pin purple pin would have gone to the air con pressure switch , the 2 pin white connector plugs in to the rad fan motor . There is another 2 pin black connector near the purple one that would be for the resistor to run cooling fan at half speed - that's only for functioning air con system...

Another ENM lives on - Sorn ATM thou . Good read - Subscribed

Good luck removing the hinges from the Alloy bonnet - they are renowned for snapping . It's more work fitting the hinges .

Not a major issue changing this seal , once it's removed the process is quite easy fitting the new one . Offer up the seal to the gearbox and tap around the edge evenly so the seal goes in straight . With regard to how far - measure the seal depth before you remove it if you can , then you'll...

IMHO , the only reason I'm doing it is because I want to eliminate any PAS pump and prevent fluid failures under the bonnet that would then wreck the alternator , "belts" engine and generally don't want oil spills out on track that would cause a problem .

HRW relay is not in the engine bay fella as far as I'm aware . It'll be the bigger relay on the interior UCH .

Have a read in here http://www.cliosport.net/index.php?threads/Pictures-of-your-looped-rack-for-EPAS%2E-What-fittings-have-you-used%3F.772015/

Well there are round holes in it :Wink

You mean these Mark

Especially it being on a 182 . Ph2 Deffo keep

I've taken a cold air feed from my fogs .

I'll make you all laugh , picked up a bit of scrap metal out of the bin and got cutting . Turned out all right I recon. What do you lot recon lol.

Right rear needs a 30 min / half of a degree shim , and that'll bring that right in spec

Years gone by - we used to cut off that connection and replace it with a new spade connector . Cured it every time . More than likely it's over heated over time and is either dirty or current overload burnt which is why it fails.

I've had creaking from within the rack before . It turned out to be a dry rack and pinion on the left side of the rack. I removed the n/s rack gator and lubed rack bed as necessary and all was good . Worth a try as its cheap.

@Fraser.J. Have you any pics of where you mounted the pins.

cs_dave . I'm a bit confused with the quoted . You say they look better than aero . What do ? You've not said. I mean : the Op is about aero catches and I posted an alternative.

Car is coming along nicely - subscribed also . I'll be removing wiring from the rear at some point , but it's got to warm up first lol .

Mine is a roadie also , so locking is No1 priority. Do look good though

Really like these - but not having a locking system on them would be pointless using them.

@Ben NBR Cup , any updates fella . Have you done anything ?

Have a read in here http://www.cliosport.net/index.php?threads/Pictures-of-your-looped-rack-for-EPAS%2E-What-fittings-have-you-used%3F.772015/

This is a common issue I have found . I would suggest warming up the said catch and gently bending it into shape . It can't be that hard . Make a template out of cardboard the curve of the boot lid and then you will have the curve to work to when shaping the catch . I'll be doing just this...

I ran DS2500's , had them in for ages , used on road as well . Always performed well for me . As its been said its all down to how you abuse them that denotes if they perform well or not .

Ah that's handy - inlet coming off soon as I have my RS2 going on , so I'll do the rack business after its installed . Nice one .

Can you Pm me a pic of the bits please . Like to see what you got on offer [emoji106]

Nice one - you cheap skate lol :tounge out . I'm now guessing you can sealer the rack in situ ? Did you ? Or did you have the rack out.

Okee dokee cheers , I'll take a look then. With regards to the bolts , are they flat headed so to hide under the outer trim ?