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i always worry about my mirrors too, as i now cant park unless im a good few inches from the kerb.

I think theyre a bit fiddly, when you but the new one in you need to get it dead square or youll bugger it up, id go to a garage.

I agree, definately gonna cost more than you think, Ive already got a spare head so the engine can be assembled, worked on, then swapped for current one, this seems the best option if you dont want your car off the road for any great periods of time. Im not just looking for a straight 2L though...

You can get a Willy/16v L.S.D. from here, aint cheap (£1050) but no doubt useful... http://avanti-motorsport.co.uk/Special_Offers/special_offers.htmlhttp://avanti-motorsport.co.uk/Special_Offers/special_offers.html

Im interested too. mailto:coolspot_@iname.com">coolspot_@iname.com

Right heres some help from an old post of Loftys. Theres a few of us on here who wanted to do this conversion, Lofty, Me and SimonNOS, but loftys got a proper F7R now,AFAIK SimonNOS is doing it as a winter project. Anyway heres what Jimbo said... " to convert an f7p to williams spec, ur gunna...

Nick Hill posted something about doing this conversion aparently something, possibly the crank will hit something unless a bit is ground out for it, as this differs on the F7P. try doing a search throught the topics. Other than that you need a Willy/1.9 diesel crank, 2L starter, bottom end...

the megane engine fits in nicely, and theres probably a lot about, not too sure on the mounts. The best bit of the conversion for the price, 2.6k i think, is the lumenition reprogrammable ECU, thats reprogrammable on the move by the way :D...

more torque? should make a difference up hill

thats the HP induction kit

ive kept up ok with the normal SRI, actually got ahead a little between 70-90 but then the bigger engine started to show me up.

cheaper to just get the 1.6 megane conversion id of thought

ive kept up ok with the normal SRI, actually got ahead a little between 70-90 but then the bigger engine started to show me up.

theres pics of a semi built willy with 2 engines on http://pureclio16vdrivers.da.ru/http://pureclio16vdrivers.da.ru/

i ordered some new standard rears from Euro car parts and they were ATE (not power discs but ATE nonetheless)

theres pics of a semi built willy with 2 engines on http://pureclio16vdrivers.da.ru/http://pureclio16vdrivers.da.ru/

think they just come in matt black plastic, they have little plastic bits that push in around the edges, i dad to snap mine off to get it off. Still stays on without em tho, put a bit of epoxy on it if your worried though.

Is the system you are talking about ok for carb and inj cars ?

What about Clarkson flinging that RS200 off the track LOL!

:oops: should read gonna flush and change the oil

What about Clarkson flinging that RS200 off the track LOL!

mine has started doing it since the weathers been a bit colder gonna change the flush and change the oil ASAP

Just need a bit of help on this one, ive been quoted £50 for a new track rod end, so i checked andyspares and they have 4 part numbers, two for each side - track rod left hand/right hand, male and female. Do i need one or the other (male/female) or both. If just one are they model/year specific...

Dimma conversions usually have longer driveshafts to get the wheels out more

i saw a silver street Ka about 3 months ago driving round Liverpool.

if you need help, you know ill have a go at it! Scoop is finished, just making brackets to keep it tight by the mesh now. I think im getting the hang of the fibre glassing now, at first it was a bit fiddly to work with.

i saw a silver street Ka about 3 months ago driving round Liverpool.

Got my MOT on Friday, my rear brake pads are a bit worn, is there a minimum thickness of friction material or is the actual braking tested? And if i cant get throught the emissions are there any tricks i can try? (i put the cat back on of course, and am planning on going for a quick blast down...

Got my MOT on Friday, my rear brake pads are a bit worn, is there a minimum thickness of friction material or is the actual braking tested? And if i cant get throught the emissions are there any tricks i can try? (i put the cat back on of course, and am planning on going for a quick blast down...

check the plug holes for water, then check the battery leads are tight, then hit the starter like brun says