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Why fit a half cage, I've never understood it, you fit one for protection if it goes horribly wrong, and they offer no protection whatsoever 🫣🤕 just get a full cage
Wheels off and get at it with a pry bar of at home, you'll soon see something that's loose, much easier on a lift obviously if you can get the use of one
I've managed to get it to work slightly after working it back and forth, its not perfect but not far off. I have stuck new oil in it and will run it over the next few weeks to see how it behaves, I'll update soon
I've drained oil and removed the reverse sensor, not seeing anything, be a pain to strip it down just for a nylon bush or something daft. It's on 66k and doesn't weep from the usual seal.
From 5th to centre yes,not from 1st or reverse, you need to pull it over, the pivot in the gearbox is stiff when pushing it up, the linkage and spring etc are all good.
Not sure how they look inside the box above that pivot arm, I'm guessing something is misaligned after my spirited drive...
I have an issue whete the vertical arm (one that leaks at the seal) in the gearbox is sticking when selecting first, second and reverse,up position at the box.
Reverse is very hard, have to push the lever over and select, I've disconnected the linkage to rule that out and confirm that the arm...
Does ot happen all the time when pulling off or more so on hard lock, febi mounts should be fine. try pushing engine forward, if no luck then you might want to spanner check the front end, and work everything with a pry bar
Test the crank sensor and wiring, you'd need a multimeter and a helping hand, test the voltage at the plug and resistance of the sensor, or just change the sensor and wiring, cheap, easy to do and they are prone to fail anyway, hopefully it sorts the issue
https://www.remotekey.co.uk/shop/renault/renault-clio-mark-2-1998-to-2001/renault-clio-mk2-immobiliser-bypass/
Never used one myself, but it might help
Fit a ew battery in the key first, or try starting it with the key fob button pressed in, maybe some wires have been disturbed, nothing doing a box should cause this issue though,
Just order some skf bearings, they are a good product used in various industry, mine have been fine for 8yr, you'll get them off ebay usually with quick delivery
I dontbknow why you don't spend one weekend getting it all set up correctly, with all the little bits finished then just use it for a year or so, you haven't enjoyed the thing yet, get the geo set up, stick it in for tuning and get ready to enjoy the summer at least, garage that m3 for a while 😂
Yokohama ad08r is what I use, loads more grip than the ps3 for the summer, they are also very good in the wet which helps, downside is they harden the ride a little
Hard to find with the offset or fitment for the car, even upgraded wheels is very hard to find, the styles that are close I don't like, I'll sort some out soon maybe
It's around 70 to 80 to change them over from a guy i know, I've been looking for wheels but not much about, and the ones I have seen I'm not keen on paying the price as most are rough as toast or wont deliver, I'll likely get a set next year hopefully or upgrade the wheels, I have been looking...
Look forward to it, my one is what they call oem+ I think 😂 just finished another quick refresh of the underside, did it 8yrs ago and it held up pretty good tbh with the bilt hamber wax, one thing not to do is powdercoat anything, it simply falls apart, properly applied paint is much better...
Most good ones are priced too high from what I've seen, can get some mk3's for sometimes not much more, one thing to know, they are a pain in the hole to work on, buy the best you can is my advice. They are just a total different car to the 172 in all aspects, and obviously much easier to drive...