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If its just a road car, I would not fit any of them , especially if roads are poor condition

I'd just fit new genuine Renault ones tbh, they last forever with zero issues

Probably wrong sized bushings but regardless they'd need to be changed, not the best of jobs if you don't have a ramp

These clios do rust in certain hard to get to areas, them brake lines should of failed the mot a good few years ago, but are cheap and very easy to fix, the green areas on the lines are a sign of erosion and will likely fail very soon, find someone on here local who knows what their doing and...

Seems crazy money for me as I'd use and abuse it, it all depends on how deep pockets people have, 15k to some folk in the car scene is peanuts tbh

Really like a white r26! Only downside for me is the dash is ugly and they are a pain to work on, very nice though 👌

Are the lambdas protruding to much internally into gas flow area maybe, may be an issue if it's a race cat/modified downpipe

Remember to check the piston coating, big red ones have a coating on them that fails very quickly at the outer part where the dust seal sits causing them to stick....Renault ones don't have this coating and will do 100k with ease, that's from my experience

Looking for recconended known settings, something that's just a good all rounder for both wet and dry, cars not used much on the road and only on track now in again so not to worried about tyre wear 172cup on b14's, ad08r, camber bolts & pms top mounts Thanks 👍

Could be related to the tps or throttle body, you'd need to plug it in and start checking the parameters of all sensors etc are reading as they should both hot and cold and when on heavy load, best to just drive it around collecting live data via obm port which might help, could be anything...

You can't deglaze the pads so it'll stick to plain discs, pad deposit sticks to grooved discs also but nowhere near as bad, that's what the grooves are for, yes you'll eat pads slightly quicker but it's not too bad, I run brembo grooved discs with no issues other than the obvious noise...all...

Surely the ktec one is just a cheap cat used also then? I've kept the pipes and just sold the cat...I got 625 notes in aberdeen

Looking online i can only find the ktec kit available, does anyone else offer a SC kit for the mk2 RS?

Likely just age or been slightly damaged in the past whilst removing/refitting the cable I'd say

I think it has to be a good idea, the torque on these is terrible at best, they need strangled to keep up with anything imo

And for destroying the car i wouldnt worry too much, yes their going up in value etc but thats not what you bought the car for i guess, its an old renault, mod it and abuse it...only live once and all that

If you only use it twice a month then I'd say bodies and cams, but it will likely cost more to do than the LB unless you find second hand parts, think all you need to make a LB work long-term would be an upgraded clutch

Cut the bumper, it's a sports car not a diesel 😂

Looks like it's been parked up, then someones stripped bits off it

Rough idea, what do you think it would be worth?

Remember to get correct grade of nuts and washers to match the bolt

Shame it's came to this, misfire could be something daft like plug gap..still cheap motoring when you can get an engine for £300 and their easy enough to work on if you have the time, just get live/recorded data and you'll soon find the issue

Yeah maybe bud, ive just always found it to fail on awkward areas, bolt holes etc....Once it chips it's just a downward spiral in that local area, pain in the ass and annoying at the same time

Two coats of blue steel, a coat of zinc primer then any paint you want, couple of good coats at a decent temperature would be fine for what it is

It should be dry in there, never seen mine wet anyway

Imo i wouldnt powdercoat the rear parts, a good quality paint job is much better at getting battered with stones etc and easy to do once blasted, coating looks good for a year max then just needs repaired all the time to keep it looking good....most disagree but been there done it,

Try 5amp fuse in engine bay fusebox first, it's for the pump

You may need to fit an additional dog bone type mount on the forward side if running big power, is it cracked or been torn apart on the weld haz? It may just need more weld with a bigger cap or the steel is to thin, hard to say without seeing one tbh....you could fit a custom made job, or brace...

Something like dinitrol or schultz do various coatings, the bilt hamber stuff mentioned is good but not good enough for wheel arches or areas that are heavily impacted by in the wet, lucky if it holds up for a year from what I've seen

SC but it if comes down to cost, turbo is a good bit cheaper and if kept around 230 it should be reliable enough