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The night practice session was about the only time that the car ran (almost) at 100%. It was still misfiring a little bit. Still haven't got to the bottom of the problem, but then I haven't had much time to get into it since then.

Ha! Well spotted. Someone else pointed out the article in the magazine this week too. With my Demon Tweeks sponsorship sticker visible that should be £150 voucher too! It all helps! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Do you have any camber shims on the rear too? I run a 10mm spacer which has 2degree camber machined into it and also run a small 5mm spacer with my wheels which are ET35. But it will also depend what your ride height is set at. I have also rolled the arches as a precaution but have never had...

Yes, you've probably got a dodgy sensor or more likely a loose or corroded wire going to it. You'll find it low down on the front of the engine at an angle down in to the sump. Beside the dipstick.

Valve snapped. Not necessarily due to timing out but probably just due to giving it a thrashing. Standard valves are known to fail like this although I’ve also had a Supertech valve fail for no apparent reason too. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yep, what he said. Mark is old school but is meticulous and knows these cars backwards. I’ve used him for cornerweigting my car for years Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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Yes those are the ones. 6 in total. Just out of interest have you checked you’ve got the same stub axles on both sides? 172cup axles were about 5mm thinner than standard. I found this on my car a couple of years ago. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Not ideal but yes, an axle spacer will work. Not a wheel spacer though. There is a bit of adjustment on the rear subframe if you loosen all the bolts so you might be able to do that. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

They always need the spacer. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I always thought this pipe could be a weak spot. I siliconed mine in as I built the engine. They're not easy to extract from the block though, especially without removing the water pump. Sorry, not very constructive I know. But I do sympathise.

Sunday's racing. Our race starts about 2 hours 19 minutes in. 6 hours 46 minutes for the night race.

2 Weeks ago we had the final race meeting of the season at Donington. The finale being a 40 minute night race following the usual 40 minute race on Sunday afternoon. All the racing over the weekend was streamed on Youtube so we got plenty of coverage over the 2 races. Not always for the right...

Please don’t make Mr Walkers engine too powerful! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That sounds about right.

Was a while ago now but I think it was about 2.5mm. Its guess work really.

That's true and it may point to the fact that even changing the airbox may mean you'd benefit from a remap. Both figures seem a little low but that may be down to calibration. The difference between the two figures is what's interesting.

The lower AFR value should be better in theory as you are running richer at 12.1 than at 12.5. So you should get more power with the KTR box on.

Haven't counted the teeth but it's standard 172. I've got a couple of them, both the same. oil pressure mod effectively increases the tension in the spring in the pressure relief valve helping to keep the pressure up.

You’ve got the correct one. At least that’s the same as mine. Worth doing the mod to it to help oil pressure while you’re at it Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Not grease. You need to fill the rack with power steering fluid and then loop it with with the proline kit or PMS kit. Or make your own. If you use a 330 or 350mm wheel you’ll find it easier of course. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Cheeky photobomb in Autosport this week!

Thruxton 21-09-19 By lunch time last Friday the car was on the trailer and I was all set to head off to Thruxton. Weather forecast was good for Saturday and I was feeling positive. The journey down was uneventful although I was spotted by an Instagram follower which was weird! And I arrived at...

No chance. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

See my reply to your other post about this but I'd say they've lasted well. I've just changed my RC6s after 3 races and a test day. 2 of the races were wet hence they have crumbled like yours. (worse than yours actually although they were still attached to the backing plate)

Yes I forgot to mention CL RC5s, 6s et al are prone to crumbling which is apparently caused by moisture. So if you’ve had a wet track day or your car has sat outside this is a common problem. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

On closer inspection I wouldn’t say that wear is too excessive, but keep an eye on pressures. Do you have a tire thermometer? Also useful to know that you have even temperature across the face of the tire Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The blue on the tire is just oils coming out of them which happens after they’ve been standing for a while after a track day or race. The wear could be down to wrong pressures but could also be your toe. I run slight toe out on my race car. Your camber should be ok like that. Too much camber...

A week tomorrow I will be setting off down to Thruxton. this feels odd for 2 reasons. 1, since Brands Hatch the car hasn't needed anything other than routine maintenance and 2, I can barely remember the last time I made it to 2 race meetings in a row! Of course, I have been tinkering despite...

Definitely earth on rear lights. They’re notorious for it. Should be an easy fix. Airbag should only be a fail if the airbag light is on. Although it definitely helps to have a more amenable tester. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk