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im in EXACTLY the same boat funny enough i was just on my way out to do it lol
im just wondering it the sun visors will go back on,, and i know you have to loose the interior light
http://shop.ebay.co.uk/merchant/performancetrim
im going to buy a set from these people,, seem decent enough price wise..
now, question is.. for the front ones where the handle bolts to it, do they just bolt straight on flush?
only i've seen i think it was batmans old car he had plastic...
right come on seen as you are the first can i have as many interior shots as possible please from the rear ie showing the cage and how they have dealt with no rear seats etc
ta!
no lol....
no offence but are you up to fitting an alarm??
cut + solder is the only non bodge way or you can use scotch locks thats what alarm installers do but as a rule crimp connecters are bodge imo and look messy/chunky
its an impossible task really there are so many different catagories
mk1 beanie
mk2 ph1 - show middo (just dont like the boarding in the back other than that perfect)
- go - barron/bazzon
mk2 ph2 - sm wrc
ph1 v6 - cat171 cars immaculate and well looked after
ph2 v6 - deb its just...
wrong
well,, depends how much you like the car/have the modifying bug
i so so badly wish i hadn't of sold my old 1.216v engine i'd have loved to see what i could get out of it
you wouldnt need new brakes or suspension
1.4 16v runs the same brakes as a williams on the front (which is 150 bhp) and drums on the rear which produce more effort than the discs on said williams, so they are fine
no need for suspension we are after power at the moment
mines 180bhp on...
space issues aside, an inlet roughly like what dunlop has mocked up minus the taper,,
what if you were to put the tb right in the front bang in the middle of no 2/3
would that not do away with the problems you are trying to solve with the taper??
or would 1/4 be starved
i think you are wrong,, i think its a gap in the market thats been overlooked.
put it this way if more power had to be had from that particular car id rather spend it turboing that than say a 172 conversion.
possibly, only a tiddler though
them plugs you put in it wont be helping, i put them in mine lasted 500 miles and one of them died was running on 3
my bets coil pack though
eml will be on due to it detecting missfiring
sounds alot more serious than all the suggestions i've seen so far...
firstly, brakes dont just get air in the system just like that...
assuming you have checked the fluid level, was it low, dont mean a bit below minimum im talking empty???
if no,, the fact that the diagnostic light is on...
just dont want to go too far with them,, he used to slot flywheels on pintos etc and one of them shattered,, blew the bell housing to bits and buryed itself in the tunnel
no mate all bolt on stuff
need wings, bumper, lights, bonnet, grille and i think the slam panel (also a bolt on part) but im not sure on that one may get away with your one
not just flooding?
how do you know fuel is getting to the cylinders
how do you know its firing the spark at the right time??
could be not enough fuel (had that before) clamp the return on the regulatoor off
enough compression?
had your standard one lightened??
how much in terms of weight/matieral was taken off it???
i've got a spare with an engineer mate at the moment,, but he needs a clutch before he can do it to see how far he can go,, theres not alot there to be taken off by the looks of it
not checked the coil pack?? you are best of actually diagnosing it rather than throwing parts at it...
what dosn't it have???
pull each lead off the coil pack check each is sparking
mine will be done after christmas got the pump but need some brackets to fit the pas rack..
already cleared a space in the scuttle (it does fit) but if you want it low you could probably make some brackets and mount it infront of the gearbox behind the front bumper
and yep thats the pump
used on lesser models too,, you want the later one ideally as the res is built it earlyer one has a seperate res just harder to mount.
your cars stripped isn't it so no heater box?? i'd put it in the scuttle..
or where the battery goes
lines can be made easy there are loads of on site...
doing the same on mine its simple enough only issue is getting a high pressure line made (return you can make yourself)
i personally would rather do that job than change the rack