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ah rod bolts.. they are worth doing, you said head studs. no known problems with oe headbolts.. if it aint broke dont fix it rod bolts are worth doing if the sumps coming off or if youre going over the 8k barrier revs wise imo

the reason people say the weld is stronger than the metal you are welding,, is generally with mig welding you only heat a localised area which cools fairly quickly and it tends to make the surrounding area brittle so the part that breaks is next to the weld

sorry didnt clock it was a ph1

twisted one

i've got the poly bushes. mine had 10k worth of 1.2 abuse that both bolt holes on that were fine after and now coming up for 10k worth of 182 abuse and again all fine

headgasket on that 900????? i'd do it for 4!

thats the way forward! :o

the cup is the stripped back version of the 172 less weight no a/c basically you trade off the un nessecary comfort shyte fitted to the FF version in return for road feel etc mate of mine who is also on here has owned both and thinks the ff doesn't compare

dont change the subject ;)

172 cup seems like the only option judging by what you are after

could be done for well under a grand.. bogg bro's manifold r1 bodies or similar megasquirt bit of home mapping not easy, but doable

its worth seeing too,,,, when its actually doing this.. pull the boost pipe off the t/b and see if the butterfly is actually being opened making it rev high. that will tell you if its the ecu making it rev... if its shut.. it could be something a bit more interersting like a leaky injecter...

does your gearbox have a speed sensor? if so unplug it and see if it still does it.. fords suffer with a similar issue and its sometimes heat related also

an inlet manifold/set of t/bs plus airbox for them cable throttle set up ecu decide what you want to do with the loom, make it yourself in which case you will need various connecters etc..

interested in this myself (the sourcing of the parts yourself) it CAN be better than standard running/reliability wise its ALL down to how good the mapping is

you can get the immobiliser code from renault as long as you have the chassis number... the chassis number is the vital bit. but matt has access to the system so he can get the immobiliser code for you thats why i mentioned both

not sure if you've tried him but if not try matt, 0125438661 you'll need ecu, uch key and immobiliser code/chassis number of donor vehicle (the last two being vital) and yep it should be plug and play but it has been known they lock up and need the immobiliser recoding for no aparent reason...

brilliant idea electrics will be your biggest issue espsecially coming from a diesel but yeah the renault nissan alliance now means alot of parts are interchangable so doable... i reckon it would be a good project i personally wouldnt do it but yeah crack on

that thing is a fcuking weapon! vaux lumps are so tunable always had a soft spot for them! what have you got the limit set at then?

they are made of plastic though not exactly load bearing only reason they are needed is without them even though the wheel bolts are tapered you will never get them to bolt on 100% central... which causes an unbalance/vibration which is what loosens the wheel bolts spigot rings just let...

yep thats fine,, get some fine cutting paste and see how it comes up you want a uniform grey line all the way round i reckon that will lap in fine. the lips only that big as the seats have probably been cut in the past so it sits further in.. better seal + effectively a larger valve opening!

there is NO OTHER WHEEL than the compomotive mo for what you are after end of,, its been emotional

jog the lot on, and fit a heated front screen (if you can find one)

you need to think about whats going on here before giving them the go ahead is the bottom end definately ok? cant see how that can happen (and how ALL 16valves have bent) if the timings not slipped infact it cant, its physically imposible only a few cam followers are snapped,, all the...

dont see why you would need them, its braced at the other end via the turbo

that welding is amazing

its just good :rasp: dont get why people say that.. so you want to just jump in and push one button to start it ??? db7 vantage is like that as standard, turn the key and push button. mines mainly security.. if somebody does get hold of my keys i've got a chance to quietly and calmly...

mines better;)

never had it on a clio... you should be fine to be hnest mate the fact that you bent the subframe probably broke the retainers on the captive nuts. i've had it on a freelander rear subframe.. had to do as you did cut holes in chassis/re welded/ plated the hole

you've had nightmares!!! i changed an inlet manifold on one as an apprentice and dropped a washer down the inlet :o