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its like anything really if all these addatives for fuel or oil were any good.. why did they not put it in the fuels and oils to start with

yup, i work over the road!

thats mine,, havn't been about here for a while but yeah its near enough a re-shelled 172 now... thats outside my gf's house i've not seen your one about?

all the early v8 top tensioners... christ can do them in my sleep now (work at a jag specialist)

Re: Mk1 172 Hybrid Track Car Project surely it still needs the immobiliser coding? the emulator is just tricking it into thinking theres a key there.. ie plugging that in is exactly the same as taping a key to the decoder ring! all you have done is taped any old key to the decoder ring in...

they are plastic, just bolt on.. they take about 45 mins half hour to change

wouldnt want to be running oil lines the length of the car tbh

its easy enough mate, bin the pump and pipework etc and you want a 5pk850 belt (5rib, 850mm... origional belt is 6rib but its easier to find 5 and fits fine) then you can either use a 1.216v or 1.5dci rack,, which is designed for a power column... its just a manual rack with a quick ratio...

oh sorry misread it! yeah have you checked for spark and that the injectors are being triggered?? work that out then go from there are paint wont affect the cps signal

its using an electric PAS pump for a saxo vtr,, custom power steering pipes plumbed in to the 172 steering rack

yeah you need the cup bracketry or you can get the brackets off a volvo i think its a 480 you want

you just need to learn cadence braking etc.. nope,, no pas gains you power (about 7bhp historicly so i was all for that) and aircon is just dead weight. with my new pas setup i have best of both worlds

fine, you just have to know how to drive! it needs biasing properly though. personally i hate driver aids and think they are the reason for the shocking standard of driving today

thats the problem,, poor power supply 2volts is nowhere near enough to start it

same as me,, all 1.216v shafts hubs subframe the lot except the engine and gearbox.. running no abs, and was using no power steering but i've now got an electro-hydraulic pump running a 172 steering rack

when the cams are locked (from the rear of the cylinder head) the belt has to be tight between the two cam pulleys... other wise when its not locked and the tension pulls the peice of belt between the two cam pulleys tight,,, they will be out of time (hence the need for slackening the pulleys)...

no, it makes no difference you obviously have to know what you are doing,, time it up and turn it round twice and see if it still lines up (which it will if there was no slack between the cams) then you make a decision. been fine on every one i've done

not for belt changes really unless theres alot of slack between the 2 cams

never seen a clio you have to take the whole lot out of!! yeah it can stay in

no theres 2 whites 1 grey and 1 black,,, im not entirely sure as to there uses i think the 2 whites are for the heater,, black is earth and grey is signal all i know for a fact is when wiring them up,, it dosn't matter which way round you put the 2 whites

thats not the engine sticking out the bonnet lol thats the supercharger and its out the bonnet because its a v8 so that sits between the v and dosn't fit hence the hole

good idea imo do it reckon to do it properly (depending on if the 1.2 ecu can be mapped to read positive pressure) you could do it under a grand with the right know how. using a mini supercharger theres not an awful lot of work in it tbh

im with danny that nut dosn't even need to be there you could do away with that nut completely tension the belt with a lever bar and aslong as the rest of the alt bolts are correctly tightened it will never move

what a utterly stupid half brained moronic thing to say. you dont get it so you want him to stop talking about it i bet you dont understand politics either have you sent letters to number 10 telling them to shut it?

its not that bad.. just because its alot of money to some people younger and etc (dont take that as a dig,, myself included) dosn't mean its alot of money work out how long it takes,, plus garage overheads staff wages etc etc etc its really not that bad

surely if he can figure everything else out he shouldn't be stumped by the clutch???? trial and error as with any conversion of the type... any similarly sized (piston area and travel) clutch master cylinder should work...

solid flywheel

the oil seperator dosn't no. the cam cover holds them in (the part the size of the whole head)

nothing,,, you change things when they are worn out!!! dont beleive some of the responses to this... take it to a decent garage.. get them to check the car over, and replace parts as nesseceray! no point changing track rod ends tie rods etc etc if they have no play!!

lol. is that some stupid cover thing you have stuck over the steering wheel too? you shouldnt be allowed to own nice cars!!!!!!!!