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yep sounds about right to me aswell

firing order you mention.. the reason i asked what you had changed is i was hoping one of the items were leads.... the fact that it cranks and stops itself sounded like you had the firing order wrong nothing else would do that

seems to be tracking pretty well considering

what where the few things you changed???

nah you'll probably be ok i normally risk it to be honest but sometimes it has been known when its disconnected (that or the ecu) it can all lock up and need the immobiliser recoding

come up nice mate

mines done 15k trouble free now since i first started it

its probably the rotary switch/squib/slip ring what ever you want to call it its the part that allows the steering wheel to turn. you need to go through starting at the switch checking out where it loses feed but its difficult to explain step by step unless you know what you are doing

well plans have changed if that is it i was under the impression it was going to be billet parts welded together

i dont think welding it in will work personally the clip is one a spring and 2 too thin so putting enough heat to melt it (ie welding) will cause the metal around the weld to turn brittle and it will crack round the weld next time it trys to jump out no expert but thats what i'd have thought

top of the tread has to be covered by arch so yep thats fine

ha ha i hate that junction every man for himself! yeah i see ya mate car was looking nice

yeh cheers for that mate yours all alright still yea ?

leaking boost pipe would cause it yeah engines getting un metered air so will be over fuelling

was it mapped properly sounds overly rich thats not normal? scored bores can also be caused by over fuelling.

so do peugeot and citreon.

complete axle and handbrake cables you can just the the hub assemblys pipes and cables though

all engines breath a slight amount of oil vapour,,, some less healthy engines being more asthmatic than others. yeah they all have a drain screw that i've seen most have a level sight too

been a bit bored this weekend off set about doing a few things that were annoying me. number 1 new steering wheel thanks to pete 2 the poxy magnex exhaust,, hated the twin pipes from day one,, so i set at that with the angle grinder and welder 3 rear disc axle,, just looks a bit nice...

yep that was me! thanks,, didnt see you mate? may have been half asleep lol.

Re: 1*2 Turbo?? cant use a turbo from any diesel on a petrol engine as the turbine shaft will melt

i've taken a few apart and its like every other one you see one has a gasket next dosn't silicone is fine

i got my stuff from matt wouldnt reccomend you do it that way for the aftersales help etc alone

cant wait for details and costings of the manifold,, summer treat for me i think!

and you mean high compression? unless you are wanting to boost it?? engine scrap tbh you want to change the CR so you'll be left with a crank and conrods meaning you'd need a new block and pistons of your choice etc just start with a decent engine

im thinking possibly not a mate (b16doe on here) is a windscreen fitter and may be able to sort you out fitting wise give him a shout. he did tell me once that they hardly ever come out in one peice he said it can be done but its tricky so if it is and you can get it fitted cheap enough then...

ill give you 20 quid and postage for it

mines been out in 3 hours before. wouldnt make a habit of it though, i cant be bothered to work like a mad man all the time if i got the job at work i'd probably pace an engine out job over more than half a day

whack some valves in it and double its value imo. easy enough to do diy cant really get it wrong.

1.4 is an entirely different engine and turbo charging a car is not even remotely just as simple as bolting it on. and to be honest, if you can get round all the challenges of getting the thing to run properly on a turbo set up,, making a manifold to fit a turbo wouldnt really be a problem for...