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i had this. they are a bad design in that they dont fit the bottom of the turret, they move about about 1cm in the turret, which is bad as potholes etc jolt them over which changes the camber and castor.... mine had been moving about a while (had a gut feeling it was moving about and was...

yeah not alot you can check on the inlet side. air leaks will affect emmisions as the lambda sees too much oxygen and trys to over compensate but thats about it

lol just seen this, the loser cruiser haha never heard that one before. yep 8.15 i'd have been late so excuse the driving lol!

check the inlet emmisions? have a day off... the inlet dosn't emit anything, hence the name in let... dont quite know what you are warbling on about but the use of the word knobber hasnt cleared anything up other than that you dont know what you're on about:S

stock

120 quid plus vat and about 10 seconds but they will want it a day

buy a valve key - you can remove and refit the valves fine they dont need replacing if you want to do the job properly you need a tyre shop to pop the bead on the tyres so you can mask them properly

much :cool:

its quite straight forward tbh mate,, probably just waste your time looking at a guide. the engines in the middle of the engine bay, unbolt the bits around it untill it falls out! thats how the first bloke did it!

im not overly sure i like the way you are portraying essex there mate :eek:

hmm.

busy day mate? lol

AHEM lol

yeah that ones a boost sensor.. if its anything like the renault diesels (its a completely different kettle of fish but same sensors etc) they have an electronicly controlled boost regulation solenoid

i put it at firing tdc then blow it out with the air line. the tang you can pull off with thin long neck long nose pliers or put a load of grease on the end of a long screwdriver and tap it off with that then it sticks to the grease

i'd get one from a 1.9d trafic van, they are enormous probably fill the front lower grille sort of size. you'd just need to sort some pipework

yep i saw you! you were sitting at the lights yeah?

baileys tend to do that they are awfull.. its where at low revs its not making boost therefor is under vacum so it holds the valve open.. thats what you can hear. forge are better, but dump valves are still a modifcation (in for sort of sence anyway) for people that dont know what they are...

done the job a few times.. works fine. would happily gaurentee one i'd done for a year. get it helicoiled elsewhere

yup pretty much

yeah pas pressure sensor its for idle control..

yeah, but its easy doing it that way,, infact he had to change the dash really, as the running gear and engine/dash looms came from a ph2 cup. so it was just a case of plug in and bolt it in where as if he'd of kept the ph1 dash it would have been nightmare wiring. same thing with this...

refurbed throttle body you mean? could be burnt out valve, ring, spark plug i know you said you get a spark out of each but one could be weak

nope the light stays on with the ecu removed, you'll need to either find the signal line that goes fromt the ecu to the instrument cluster, and earth it... or take the cluster apart and stick tape over the bulb

not nessecerily just a more pro one if you like.. crypton/snap on etc etc

start at the hub, you have 4x100 right obviously your spacers are 4x100, they sit dead against the hub... so obviously no movement is needed there. the 4x98 wheels sit on top of those, the only movement you then need is very slight (works out at about 1mm) in the actual taper that bolts the...

needs going on a proper diag computer really,, your car dosn't have a maf sensor.. it uses a map sensor, could possibly be that but guess work without proper gear

with a press it does yeah, its not reccomended but i've done it in the past (have done it on my own car too) and had no problems. and yes

you need a press to do the bearings abs ring levers off

i'd donate someone elses aswell!