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looks quite pitted to me could have been water damage.. nothing you can do about it though as even if you lock it at tdc obviously only 1 and will be a tdc. how deep is that part? may get away with honing it but depends how pitted it is. bmh - i've taken 100k + engines apart on the likes...

everyone on here will tell you genuine renault parts or nothing at all... fine if you are rich but all the stuff you mentioned pretty much i've done mine with parts from euro car parts the belt kit was less than half the price on the renault effort.. and had the same make tensioner and...

things like that you can only really iron out with live mapping

yeah i use to say that untill i tried a clio rear wiper. i put some muscle in to it and i bent the mounts for the motor in the tailgate.. and the arm stayed put!

you havnt been trying long enough!!!!!! you cant expect it to just pop off in seconds.. go out there, look at it and the tool.. and use your initative to see what you can do to get it off.. and just done come back untill its off.. all you can do mate its one of them things once told how...

unscrew the nut further so it holds the tool in place and you need some plus gas/wd40 or similar on it

only ph1 172s have an icv ph2s are fly by wire the ecu just opens and closes the throttle accordingly... and that is normal.. its a mapping issue

the 1.6 uses the same brakes as the 1.2 16v in that case then? if so i'm interesed in this aswell as my standard ones arent up to much

there will be loads of hydraulic places about i'd have thought mate.. there are loads over here anyway you see them about all the time. 24hr hose replacement and what not they get called out to tail lift hydraulics on lorrys and what not.. pas isnt normally there thing but i've had a few hoses...

i dont bother with alignment tools on any clutch i do unless its a tricky one with the release bearing built in to the plate. theres normally 3 gaps round the pressure plate, nip it up a tad just line it up by feel round the edges. i just slide the box back aswell.. on 1.2's i have lifted...

no, you get differences in other gasses that arent read on the mot beleive it or not CO and HC the two checked on mot arent the most dangerous. plus mot only checks idle and fast idle (2500 rpm) so there are differences across the rest of the range etc etc i dont claim to understand it...

so, just how many amps do these car amplifiers draw then, i mean through its power cables. i point blank refuse to belive power cable that thick is needed. if a starter motor will work fine on cable half its size i cant see a stereo system needing more

surprised it still had its wheels lol

whats different about that flywheel mate? or have you just skimmed it?

it can be done yeah... but anyone moronic enough to print them out and send them out nowadays needs help.

it dosn't. yet to find a tester stupid enough to do that nowadays.. use to happen with the written certificates a mate of mine used to write them out down the pub lol..

nope. get the same emmsions out of a 4l jaguar v8 as you do a 1.2 clio... all cars that run a catylitic converter give out roughly the same readings anywhere from 0 to typically 0.10 (allowed 0.30 on extended test) for co.. HC 100 ish max and lambda 1.. impossible to tell size of engine...

yes i do.. yes there are under bonnet checks.. but it dosn't matter if it had a jet from a 747 under the bonnet as long as it passes the testable items its no concern of his what engine it is. IF you were unlucky enough to have your car in for test on a day a vosa examinter decides to turn up...

nope, nothing to do with the tester. even if he blatently knows its got a bigger engine theres no way he can prove it short of pulling the engine apart and measuring the bores and stroke which he cant do -

you dont need the engine out or the crank out mate.. head off, sump off. undo bigend caps.. knock them up from underneath or if you do chose to have the lump out,, crank still dosn't need coming off and a machine shop wont charge hardly anything for a hone... although i'd just buy a cheap...

yep bang on !

yep.. but as has been mentioned it will want a light hone to aid the ring bedding... and also worth checking clearences chances are you'll be fine

no i mean,,, the good crank you've got! you need to use the bearings that match to that! ie the ones in your running engine now... and ideally back in the same journal numbers they were in. you'd be surprised at the price of ring kits mate!

and it will want honing anyway mate! for what it costs! i got quite a nice albeit budget honing tool from snapon for about 60 quid i think it was you just use it in a drill

yeah,,, but you'd need to use all the bearings that were in your latest one obviously.. and it would also be worth checking said clearences with plastigauge before it goes back together for peice of mind. if it were me mate i'd just drive it does it breath heavy atall? i'd just stick with...

car had an aux belt? that looks like a failed effort at trying to de tension it to me

well danny works at gdi and im a mechanic aswell.. its one of those things that wouldnt be worth doing money wise unless you were doing it yourself.. a garage wouldnt take it on... a tuner might but expect massive bills

158hp at the wheels? is that whats expected with cams ?

look at my project thread lists pretty much everything you need + stuff you will come up against

i think it would be fantastic. i wish i'd kept my old 1.2 engine i'd have had a go with an eaton supercharger from a cooper s. small forced induction engines are the way forward imo especially if you put it in a stripped mk1 shell something light