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:dapprove: thought i'd been spotted when i saw the first half of the title

what would be the point,, trying to re invent the wheel ?

engine off ignition on switch the side lights on off on off on off untill you hear a beap... re start it and hay presto

on a 1.2 yeah? couple of hours labour i'd imagine.. its not too bad will want tracking, whats up with the steering out of curiosity as theres not really alot to go wrong with the rack

no, the ecu controls everything dash,, speedo runs through it, i think the rev counter is run through it + all the uch (body computer)functions wont work without the ecu plugged in,, and thats EVERYTHING interior/ exterior lighting wise

they are no good,,, vw fitment is 17mm ,, renault 19mm.

yeah just as easy as on a ramp if you get the car high enough

nope,, jack one side axle stand under that side jack the other side axle stand under that one it does get a bit iffy when jacking 3.5 ton vans that way as it tries to tip the van off the first stand,, but cars no problem and for engine jobs/clutches etc i tend to back it on to car ramps...

you are talking jiberish,,,, you'd need one hell of a high lift jack to tip a car

anything, exhausts clutches gearboxes cambelts you name it,, all they do is hold the car up you need a jack to lift the car,, you need axle stands to stop the jack spewing its oil and collapsing on you,,, not something youd be bragging to your mates down the pub about the next night

handbrake works on the brake shoes have you taken the circlip that holds the outer race out?? you can bash it out,, but you cant really bash the new one in as you need to hit it on the outer race needs pressing really if you are on about the abs ring,, that dosnt need to be touched,, it...

dont know if you get the same snap on deals where you are,, seen the bore scope they are selling £199? ordered mine lol

is that not pistons out to mill them??? heads got to come off anyway,, cut the valve seat a few thou further down? i dont even think you'd have to remove anything of them stem as the lash adjusters would take it up

cut the valve seats further in is,, easy fix

if you have all the parts infront of you as you do with a donor car, its a peice of piss difficulties come as i said when you end up with bits for 6 or 7 different cars, looms dont match up wiring different etc etc

i've just bought some azev a's 15inch in an offset of 30, so they should widen it a bit.. thats with no spacers on it.. im hoping the new wheels will bring it out a decent amount,, rear i can space no problem behind the stub axle,, if front is too far in still i'll have to fit 172 running...

needs the track sorting still

the bores will want honing really, its not dependant on the miles its done,, the cross hatch pattern on the bores is what helps bed the new rings in/get the most efficient seal

yes that would work brilliantly. and yes they are pressed in, but they do come out

isnt there? theres enough,,,, 50 a side easy on the doors and same again on the rear loom? things like windows make it akward too when you dont have wiring diagrams and have to figure out how they work with a power probe

inc door + rear looms too, alot of the cars converted on here have been older ones, and the advice given is that rear +door looms just plug in. mine is an 04 and neither of the plugs were the same which meant ALOT of cutting/soldering/headscratching as wire colours are all different

them bahco pipe wrench things posted above are about as much use as a chocolate tea pot for this job, you want the vice grips, silver ones, in a decent size for it you need to do them so tight it hurts your hand,, tight isn't the word honestly, if you do that, it WILL come off no 2 ways...

LOL no! its about as far from plug and play as physically possible, ideally you want engine looms etc from a mk2 ph2 172,,, if its a basic car you want the stuff from a cup, if its a dynamique with all the goodies you want it from a ff 172

you want a DECENT pair of good mole grips, clamp them on tight, and i do mean tight dont be scared you will never crush it with mole grips,, will come off a peice of piss. only thing that will make that hard is not clamping the mole grips tight enough and aloowing them to slip, rounding it...

i reckon cup,, brakelight is much nicer

no i reckon too low, try pinching the fuel return line and see if it revs up any better

load sensing valve is only there as a way of biasing the rear brakes without renault producing another part, its pre set with low rear effort intentionally as the rear ends so light. im having nightmares biasing mine atm its setup 300kg effort on the front and 100 rear, and the rear locks up...

def a fuel pressure problem that mate,,

sounds like the rs tuners fault mate cant see it being a fault of the car... if you plug them in to a car its not locked to it says that

was your rs tuner bought new? sounds like its locked to another car