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possibilty is the idle control valve is very dirty/gummed up, and where he's bodged it to run a 2k at idle.. its wound itself right in and got stuck in the dirt. so cleaning it could sort that more likely possibilty is the new cables wrongly adjusted

that would explain it lol

it slides down from top top, peice of piss??? you arent trying to yank it out the front are you? its closed in on the front to hold it in.. they are only a loose fit, so much so they tend to fall out, i dont even take the scuttle panel off to change it just lift it up and get my hand down...

you cant get it out with the manifold in(on a 182), have to take the plenham off aswell for access and i bloody near cut my finger off on an exhaust manifold gasket doing one so i personally would charge alot, lol

why do you want to know this out of interest? its not adjustable, its not information given out by manufactures because of this. whats the problem with the car??? or are you mapping it? confused. to answer your question i'd imagine its somewhere around 20 deg btdc but never checked it...

subframe down box out the bottom

i've had EXACTLY the same thing (except i tracked it lol) tracked it up with the wheel locked straight, took it round the block it was quite badly left hand down come back checked again all fine,, still left hand down tyres had no real visible damage/mishape to them, swapped front to rear...

i've fitted the cup springs for ff's for a few people now b16doe being one,, if you think about it, the cup, standard is lower 7mm than a ff. the cup is lighter than an ff imagine for a second that both cars were the same weight, fit the cup srpings to the ff its going to be 7mm lower...

probably one of the shims missing where the pad sits on the caliper carrier ( i say probably i'd bet my left spud on it) they tend to fall out when fitting new pads and its easy to miss the click will be the pad initally jumping downwards,, then once its seated downwards no noise

its the same as with hydraulic pas.. lock to lock wise. but traditionally a manual rack will be an extra turn either way,, which is no good for track work as you will be forever steering lol hence the rack thats being used here

assuming you have a cup (you need a cup alternator set up with no ac),, then you just use a shorter 5pk (5 rib) 850mm belt...

well, its a rack designed to be used with an electric column.. ie the car it came off, had an electric motor bolted to the column, the rack itself is just a manual rack but the reason its only 1.5 turns to lock (and difficult to steer) is because its supposed to be assisted

yep, thats the one !

think edde is confused.. the mod in question here is removing the hydraulic pas from the sports yes you could use a manual rack designed for the purpose, but its like 2.5 turns to each lock so mark, myself and a few others are using an electric pas rack, just without the electrics...

lol, ah, these peasents cars all look the same to me ;)

yeah wont fit.. you got the long bolt hole (the lower one) on the bottom, thats the same.. but the top one (the small adjuster bolt) is further offset towards the pulley area. i couldnt really see a viable way of modding the ff alternator to fit cup brackets i did try

he says as we were ferrari baiting on the way home from surrey in the not too distant past ;) :rasp:

never again mate my knuckles are still bleeding funnily enough the test drive in the works van was a laugh though!

speak to b16doe he's a screen fitter what ever you do,, dont add windscreen cover to your insurance, wait a month then claim though,, as thats naughty;) ;)

the trim round the outside isnt the seal, its just trim,, the seal is the glue that holds it to the body which isnt visible from the outside the passenger footwell is either the bonnet release gromet loose or a door seal i reckon

i ground down a 3/8 breaker bar to do it with,, works a fooking treat

yeah, gave mine 182 bhp:eek:

easy to prove mate,, bank statemnt (or bank will have records of it) it either did or didnt go through,, work that one out and go from there

same exact stuff as you would need when doing a 172 conversion on the ph2's (and thats been covered loads) bar the complex electronics obviously no uch and what not

dedication for you pal,, bet we wont be seeing the northen folk in southend on saturday night !

no mate, you wont hurt it. you'd have to go some to break it, dents just add charecter seriously though hit it,, you will feel silly when you see how easy it beats out

yeah speak to steve sm wrc. i think he has cat cams i'm not sure but whatever he's put in it the car made good power (the maps not even finished yet) and it had torque all across the rev range. and its in the process of being mapped with an rs tuner

large hammer, do i need to tell you any more? stick it on lock, get a good swing on it and beat it out downwards. no need for a tool NEVER needed one and to say i've done a few is a bit of an understatement

yep

the oil pressure switch (the one that puts the stop light on) and the oil level sensor are two different sensors pressure switch is the green plug next to the filter,, level sensor is a black plug points down in to the sump