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Ok, I got everything sorted and dealt with all of the MOT fails, and the car went in today for another go. I had a call about 20 minutes later and they sent a video- it pissed its coolant all over the place! The tester stopped the test so it wouldn’t get another fail and we took a look in the...
Thanks everyone. I’ll get it done tomorrow and I appreciate the tips. At least I’ll have a badass tool for all kinds of jobs I can f**k up in future now!
Sure enough… got the nearside damper and spring on, relatively straightforward. So what, another 10-15 mins to finish the job and be ready for Friday's MOT?
No. Look at the threaded top of the damper piston where it comes through the top mount. How the f**k am I going to get that out now? The...
MOT retest on Friday- headlight: sorted, indicator: sorted, brake caliper pins: sorted, wheel bearing: on the basis that they are brand new oem, I’m going to guess this was an effect from the spacer, so removing them for the retest, leaking dampers: have spring compressors and will have the new...
I’m in no rush, except to do the retest. I have spring compressors coming tomorrow and hopefully can then be easily done. With a second pair of hands I could probably have finished it today. No big deal, just annoying!
I love when people on here say “10 minute job” and “just do it there’s nothing complicated”… it doesn’t work like that for me.
I’m working through the MOT fails and just have sticking caliper- hoping a hard drive might sort that??? And new front dampers.
All the guides say you don’t need spring...
I need to replace my front subframe (and the rear axle but that’s for another day)- there are about 5-6 brands of new subframe for the 172 ph2 on eBay- are any of them any good, or to be avoided like the plague?
Thanks
Yeah, seems to make sense as I would want to do it at some point anyway.
The headlamp aim is a pretty obvious one-I have a bulb dangling in the holder!
I'll need to talk to two techs about the wheel bearing as they literally just changed them both!
The rest is all fine for me, not real...
Wheel bearings were changed about 200 miles ago at two techs, so I think that advisory might actually be for the clicking shagged driveshaft.
My front subframe is a mess, if I’m changing the suspension arms, dampers and bushes anyway, should I just go ahead and do it all with a new subframe...
I forgot to mention the insane flooding. I think I have it finally dried out but it was a long process. Don’t want to ever do that again. It looked like it was down to my centre drain- not blocked but the insert was lifted up and I guess preventing water draining. Litres of it in the car…
This hasn’t been a great winter/spring for the Cup. And it’s MOT day tomorrow…
I finally got the gearbox mount refitted, and then realised that for an MOT, any seatbelts need to be secure and the airbag light off etc etc. never mind the rust. Whacked some 3.3 ohm resistors in the airbag...
I’m stuck getting the upper gearbox mount bolted up.
I changed it for the vibra technics one and ended up having to remove the original metal bracket the vibratech sits in to get at a broken bolt (bolt for the mount bracket into the inner wing).
It should be an easy job from here, but I can’t...
I’m struggling to make progress on this, having spent days drying it out from a big leak (seems that the central drain rubber insert was stood proud of its hole and flooding) and the MOT is coming around. I need to fit the gearbox mount, check the seats and refits seatbelt. On that note, does...
Hope that works for you. I just had to go and read up on dowty washers, what a brilliant idea. As pressure increases, the seal gets better. Sounds like it should sort the problem.
I love when someone who really knows a subject sees a simple solution to a problem, and invents something like this.
Nice one! Had my MX5 mot’d today- no advisories! That’s an achievement. The underside was all dinitrol treated and I was able to give it a careful look over- it was very well done and looks properly protected. One less thing to worry about!
Get that car on a proper policy, and on a fun road!
Yeah, nothing like working on old clios in less than ideal conditions. Weirdly I actually prefer working on the Clio to my alpina, the engine bay is less crowded with s**t. But it is rustier.
We all need a Sreten (M539 restorations) setup really, don’t we.
Good luck with the ballache you no...
Wish I could offer some advice.
I’m in a similar position to you, rust, snapping bolts and occasional bits that are beyond me. You did make something click for me though- the mystery brackets I painted and prepped last year are arb brackets. Checked my PMS invoices and sure enough, I bought...
s**t that’s not nice, can’t imagine working on a Clio in this weather and feeling unwell on top of it! Good luck with the work. Hope it’s dry this weekend (for all of us driveway technicians!)
Way back you wrote, “All in all it’s costing me a fortune and makes no rational sense whatsoever.” -...
Sure enough, under the paint inside the arch, there’s a captive nut and the end of the broken bolt that was never going to move working on it from inside the engine bay. I want to be mad at the french for such a s**t design, but also it’s a simple and lightweight solution, so I’ll forgive them...
Keep talking out of your arse then, seems you’re both right! Seems I have a trip to the wheelarch after all.
It’s being a real ballache at the moment, and it doesn’t help that it’s raining every day and it’s only under a gazebo roof.
Ah, gotcha, sorry. Yep have used wurth rost off, heat and a couple of different extractor tools.
ETA- actually, I’m really not sure there is a captive nut. The other fixing bolts have threads directly in the metal of the chassis…