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v nice mate glad you are pleased with it

possibly could adapt it (was looking at this the other day did a headgasket on one) i think the bolt spacing will be close, but k4j/k4m ports are tiny compared to f4r plus the manifold will probably ruin power output

pardon what??? :S

checked the engine earths?

marque?

are you sure its a problem? without being disrespectful you seem to worry about an awful lot that dosn't really need worrying about. so you say it gets half way up the gauge, stays there for a while them comes down by a line or so then back up after a while? is it hot where you are? maybe...

i asked the same thing mate not long ago mate never seen one like that before stone chip normally continues along the wing

you may well get away with doing that, its a possibility, although you will need the ecu (plugged in to your existing loom), uch, dash loom and clocks from the 1.2 16v donor car, and possibly door looms/rear loom aswell to mate to the 1.2 16v also as the plugs are likely to be different

well the bit you have in your right hand just pulls off of whats in your left hand, that will leave you with a tripod joint with 3 bearings on it yes? there should be a circlip on the end of that tripod, take that off and the tripod comes off edit - im pretty sure its that type of joint...

the boot held on ? its clipped on with a clip either end. i've never took an inner gaiter off you may have to post a pic, but i *think* the cv joint is a part of the shaft and as such you need to stretch a stretch gaiter over it if it isnt one peice, its either a knock off type which you...

*erherrmm* on the 1.2's they dont even have a bearing carrier, and the ones that dont have a roll pin nothing at all holds them on the gearbox splines, they tend to seize over time though and can sometimes take a good few whacks to get them moving

well its seized on the splines then, either way give it a tap check it dosnt have a roll pin through it close to the gearbox end, i dont think 1*2's do though. stop being a tart and hit it, lol

so you have onedone the plate that holds the bearing in the carrier? the bearing will be seized in the carrier you can either go through the other side and knock the bearing through with a hammer or just tap the actual inner cv joint casing with a copper hammer to pull the bearing through

will cost him more as he will need to send the flywheel, clutch cover, and crank pulleys with it too as it all wants balancing in one go yeah you can check mains clearences yourself with plastigauge, if its out will need journals checking and oversize main bearings thrust is just levering...

yeah if he has both there he can sort it out for you, main bearing clearence and thrust will still need checking though

you will have to take the lot to a machinist 1-if its already been ground you'll never find oversized shells i cant even find any for mine and its not been ground twice 2-its not as simple as you get it ground and new bearings and bolt the lot back together, its needs its clearences setting...

my usual supplier is motor parts direct, and them bunch of (we wont go in to that) dont list them, will try euros/gsf etc in the morning i guess cheers

need to buy some tommorow urgently, any motor factors list them? cheers

how deep? could maybe (guessing here) use something along the lines of the cd/dvd cleaning fluid they sell? think its just a really fine polish

you'd be better of with 4 poss even 6mm allen key caphead bolts

yeah its quite involved, i've got one in bits atm but i've just started thinking theres really no point going through the motions of rebuilding it unless going overbore, high comp etc etc etc if not doing thats you can get a complete bottom end for a ton bearings/machine work will cost you...

Re: 80% complete 172RWD! - updated thats it mate - prioritising at its best lol

booked my clio in for immobiliser coding at renault romford, got a phonecall from renault ilford on the day asking where the car was. the reply to "are you fcuking kidding me" was something to behold when renault romford did finally get my 1.2 clio in and they opened the bonnet well that just...

about as close to road rage as i get is caused by people tailgating me makes me want to just slam on the brakes sometimes i pull over and let them past it anoys me so much

yeah basically a microphone, its a bit of a crude way of sensing pre ignition ie fuel igniting before the spark happens caused by too much ignition advance, poor quality (or wrong octane rating fuel) too high a compression ratio/over boost etc etc, it operates an ignition advance modifier in...

yeah, agree with bmh really. as said i've read nothing but good things about angelworks but ben himself will tell you mistakes can happen every now and then. maybe it book it in with him so he can double check that and faultfind the rest of the engine

engines dont really run in like that, all you can do when "running in" is try to aid ring bedding but its more down to how the engines built in the first place and loads of different engine builders will have different ways of how they like to do that.. get it compression tested and confirm it

earlier, think it was a 182 was going rather swiftly, nice car though also a ph2 same road with aftermarket exhaust

yeah the switch in its static state joins the two wires if you like then as soon as it sees pressure it disconnects the two ie if you earth the wire going to it the light will come on if i had to choose i'd rather a gauge, as the oil pressure switch will sometimes let oil pressure get to as...

yep yep and yep. and nope. just a drip or 2