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if the tracking is out of tolerance on the rear, its all it can be! didnt you knock one side on the rear? its all it can be mate

Re: 80% complete 172RWD! - updated brake pipes are easy to make mate - you wont have any probs doing it flaring tools only 20 quid or so get yaself a roll of pipe and use the fittings off the old brake pipes

i've been experiancing similar, yet to try the lower tyre pressures though think its 30 all round at the mo

lol, easy this electrical lark isn't it ;)

well i've never really looked in to it on a clio, but how alot of them work is you have to live feeds if you like going to each leg of the bulb, open the door and that side lives up (earths out through the other side) and vice versa hence why it only works one way or the other simple way to test...

no combustion chamber sizes will differ im fairly sure

yeah, but you'll need the head aswell, complete engine

can confirm its plug and play near enough identical engine, to make it a real doddle you will want the ecu uch and key from the donor and just plug them in to the existing looms

rods look fine, no scoring what soever, i've just been having a look at it and im not entirely sure they have spun, as all the damage seems to be to the crank. i'll take some pics tommorow. im in romford - we have been using a place called tk engineering for head skims etc, but gosnays is...

you cant depolarize an led with a resisitor - you can however buy leds that work either polarity. only way to do it

Re: 80% complete 172RWD! - updated well i admire the attitude mate even thats not causing you much of a set back. well done, looking forward to seeing it at fcs (or else lol)

want to rebuild it fresh really mate, would be defeating the object just buying one. right, i've stripped it tonight. turns out it wasnt stuck in a bore at all, the bores came up a treat. it had spun 3 (!!!) big end bearings, the fcukers welded themselfs to the crank had to split one in half...

as said, can be done in about 2 hours if it dosnt have aircon get yourself on the autodata website and buy the timing belt data for it think its about a fiver for one car,

just buy a new engine mate, can get a good running one cheap enough now, and you can sell the head as good and rebuilt. or, the crank wont need grinding again surely! just take the lot to a machine shop and get them to sort out bearing clearences and the like

i go up there alot and i've never seen it stay that packed that late ever. was a point last summer i was going every weekend for about 3 months lol

thats alot of help mate cheers, its like anything else really i suppose - got to dive in and have a go to learn!

you can get a block skimmed! the heads off so i've just soaked it in plus gas and im going to press the piston out tommorow. all bearings etc are getting changed i'd never rebuild an engine without doing that i've already built the head, im fine building heads valve seats didnt need...

i think you may be on to something re the cracked sump jam - i'm going to bring it home tommorow and get started. i am starting to think along these lines danny - how much am i looking at for a set of pistons? main problem being - where i work i dont really get involved in bottom end...

the handbrakes (drums) do tend to stick on when they've been left sitting about for a while not really a problem but its a good idea to get them cleaned and adjusted every service (not a renault reccomendation but i tend to do it anyway) to make sure nothings sticking or binding

well i got the engine complete plugs in it, inlet plenham on it and exhaust manifold on it when i took the head off recently, number 2 combustion chamber had alot of rust deposits and it was only really that liner that looks to have suffered, i think its unlikely water has gotten in by any other...

oil light - on with ignition, turns off when pressure reached ie engine running battery light - on with ignition, turns off when the battery is charging (alternator turning, engine running) abs light(if fitted) on with ignition, start vehicle turns off after 1.5 seconds airbag light on with...

I've got an old f4r laying around which i've had for a while, which i think origionally had head gasket problems. i've already had the head off it and rebuilt that, i was just going to sell the head but im now wondering as a bit of an evening project i may just rebuild the whole engine...

im not entirely sure im with you on the "feedback through the pedal" thing when talking about a throttle - you wont ever get any feedback cable or otherwise as there is nothing really acting against the throttle body butterfly all you are doing is opening and closing a flap you wont get...

all cars do it, not just amognst the clios its how oil pressure switches work. if it dosn't come on the system isnt working

they are a bit of a bugger to change, its pressed on to the shaft

thats how its supposed to be - its an oil pressure light ie if it has no oil pressure the light comes on. and obviously when its not running it has no oil pressure. its when it comes on whilst running you need to worry same exact story with the battery light, that will be on untill its...

ah!! fantastic, if thats the case it will be in the skip by about 5 this evening cheers only reason i've been worying as i've been told (albeit only by an mot tester) that it dosn't matter if abs is gone or not the dash light still has to do the sequence i think i'll rip it out im...

yeah that would have been me, stickers in both back windows at the bottom! didnt spot the RB though where were you parked?

i saw joshuas last night i went up and down a few times - i was in my white 182 engined 1.2?

no no, my car was a 1.2 16v with electric steering, its now converted to a 182 engine but the electric column (it dosn't work) is still in place. im wondering if the fact that im turning the electric motor with the wheel and rack is taking the feel away