Search results

you dont just open the nipple and pump pedal down nipple open let fluid out close pedal up pedal down then close up etc etc if you do it wrong and open it with the pedal up you just end up sucking air back in to the system

i'd imagine the 1.2 elec steering rack is no different mike? mine feels terrible at the moment no feel through it at all - although i do still have the (albeit inoperative) electric column aswell,, so im thinking im loosing a bit of feel through this??

just hammer a flat screwdriver, torx or anything really thats oversized in to it they arent really tight

i've had a look about and havn't found anything?

you will have bent the rear axle beam, its the only thing that can happen and cause the problem you have im afraid mate get it on 4 wheel alignment that will show up the fault. ideally you dont want to adjust the fault out in the front either - as you will find it will "crab" ie the car will...

if you want a quick rack you will need the rack from a car with electric steering, its just a manual rack but geared really heavy. this is how mines setup and for daily driving its really heavy but can get used to it wondering if theres a better option myself

so hispec actually made the kit to fit the 1.2 hubs? let me know if they do go up for sale mate. i would bin the abs, but i would like a shred of legality about my car lol.

oh, one way of seeing if you have play in bigend bearings. whip the plenham off and get all the plugs out get a long thin screwdriver and put it down a plug hole (so you can watch the position of the piston) then turn the crank over... get the piston on its downward stroke ie its come up to...

im not sure if you could get away with this (i dont think so, maybe benR can clear this up) but at a long shot i've got a crank, all caps (and shells) with the rods wondering if i were to keep the parts numbered what cyl they came from you could bolt the lot in and use it for a bit? you can...

and just watched that,, fecking incredible pulled away at a few points :eek:

fred im interested in the 4pots - am i right in thinking this is running 1.2 16v running gear like mine is? also, if you get a chance mate matt advised me to speak to you about an abs harness you made for yours, im trying to wire mine up cheers

well done fella. well on the way now as said is it more under load or does it when static? would you call it more of a tap, or a deep knock. just be careful as if it is a bottom end knock you dont want the piston coming up too far and knocking a valve

they are both hyrdaulic oils - im fairly sure neither will have any affect on eithers seals, and as it will have been such a week concentration of brake fluid to the atf it should be fine just drain and refill

when you squeeze them out they get air in, and you can push them in and out and then as soon as you run it it rattles for about a minute and they pump up. done countless heads like that and not had problems on the bucket lifters i just bang them on a flat table so the valve falls out then push...

you have to get it from renault. think they charge you though. think matt black has access to them, although im not sure what he charges

it wont start the car - they have transponders in the plip for the immobiliser

ff 172s have white/white

blimey heres my effort

i was being serious came across sarcy but all i mean is - but you hit the nail on the head in your last paragraph there. you cant really go wrong, just unbolt things untill it falls on the floor - obviously if you forget where something goes or etc its nice to have this site to ask on but give...

dont need to use a roller - just get a tube of it and run a nice little bead - you dont need to go mad just a line of sealant is all thats needed long as you get it all the way round

most common sense, and frankly helpfull comment i've seen on here so far tbh - thats really simple as it is doing any job! ok you may undo more than you need to, but thats how you learn

red.

i've got a head as of today, came off a 40k 172 with a smokey bottom end. i'll skim it (its not warped, just to clean up the surface), whip all the valves out and lap them in, rebuild it with new stem seals and include the cams cover, rockers and hydraulics all ready to go (no pulleys) how...

here we go, lol.

is it a cup ? if not its a bit of a sod - have fun lol alot of the aux setup needs coming off

at the bottom of the column , where it goes through the bulkhead

yes, ALL mating surfaces need to be as good as possible - paying particular attention to block and head. also need to be free from grease and oil. hydrualics just sit in the holes in the head, just pull out with your fingers. the rockers pivot on those and the valves. once they are out they...

surely thats not right - max power at 7039 rpm???

oh, for the cam cover yes - i thought we were on about the block and head!

i do that on every single head gasket i do, be it a crappy old k series or whatever. mating surface prep is vital if you want the thing to last. hydrualics will want evacuating - you've fitted new valves so the hydraulics will need squeezing out in a vice or they will hold the valves open (the...