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parts cost me 1800 odd after tax, plus oils, gaskets, belt kit any niggly bits that have been forgotten earth straps lambda sensors etc etc you need to factor 500 quid. then theres labour - if you let an independant garage do it which have never done it before they are going to charge you AT...

have fun with getting the parts to do that. only way i could do that if it were at a place like matt blacks where i had every part (and a clip computer) at my disposal i estimate added all together i spent the best part of 2 days alone just on the phone trying to find parts ktec charge is...

bit of a random guess, but i dont reckon its head unit related, i think you have pulled a dash loom earth wire off while pushing the head unit in

you got a power probe? have a stab about in the inhibitor switch plug, i'd imagine you'll have an ignition live in there somewhere and the feedback earth that will need living up

highly doubt it they just mean you drive it there and when its done you drive it back

you dont need to replace them, just go out there and mess about with cleaning them (with wd40 both the pins and and plug) little tip aswell is to tweak the pins on the cluster to a slight angle (twist them on there own axis) to improve contact a bit it will only be that, i've had it in the...

beleive it or not. less than the quote i got for a certain 03 plate ff172 i was looking at recently

http://www.cliosport.net/forum/showthread.php?t=305546 there ya go fella

aestheticly its staying as is, only real plans are mechanical ie cams/rebuilt head engine wise and coilovers/brakes suspension wise then see what happens really lol.

was rather bored earlier, figured i'd try to clean some of the grease etc out from under the bonnet. think the old girl came out ok :D

yeah i could do with one of those also for a ph2 if they are different. only a small bit too

if you dont dot mark where it was, yeah

just fitting shocks wont alter tracking at all unless A the old ones are bent or B its fitted with camber adjusting bolts and you dont mark there location when taking them off. if changing ride height it will though

switch

i just put 30 all round

easy peasy http://www.minisport.com/acatalog/Mini_Gear_Kits_-_Straight_Cut.html

rather rebuild an f4r to tell you the truth :rasp: have fun with the flywheel

not really, just run worse.

i have these and the front end dosn't seem to grip for sh*t. never really heard good reveiws on them either. my problem is the cars always had t1rs so i cant really put the lack of grip down to the tyres

yep, but i've got one in bits atm. i'll let you know when they are free

better than my bit of gaffa tape.

had a thought, have you got an old cambelt? wrap the belt round the pulley, and put the two ends that come off either side of the pulley in the vice that way all thats gripping the pulley is the belt and all you risk damaging is the belt

need an airgun and a mate really to get them off like that just make sure your the one with the gun as holding the cam bloody hurts your hands

melted tesco bag on ya exhaust?

sounds like every last garage they took it to were incompetant. they check compression? spark at each cyl? plugs? if no fault codes shown then its unlikely to be the wiring fault

clutch looks covered in oil to me! you changing the box? if so you dont have to worry about that leak.. change the rear main while you are there also, i've done two of these sofar seem quite common

no, because you leave the bolts loose (just finger tightened so they turn but dont deflect. then the whole lot spins on there tapers as they arent keyed and yeah you just want a nice dull (but uniform) dull line on the valve seat (no need to keep checking valve as you know thats ok)

peice of piss, stick it in 3rd gear, get under the car undo the linkage get your helper to put the gearstick where he thinks 3rd should be do it up hey presto if you are really clever you can figure it out by the movement of the linkage from under the car.. something you pick up when you have...

and as for timing, you have to lock the cams and crank, then rotate the belt on its pulleys to distribute the tension

yes lap it in, you'll want some valve grinding paste and a lapping stick dont bother using coarse i just use fine