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all the 1.2's have it its down to a crap breather setup/non frequent oil changes give it a good blast up the motorway then check it;)

with my solid top mounts i get no banging at all? you get a bit more road noise transmitted through them but no banging or crashing if you think about the rubber ones are free to move up and down and therefore can bang in the turrets, solid ones are bolted solidly to the strut so therefor...

any thoughts

yeah, but i saw the w*nker trying to pull it off so quietly and calmly went to retreive it.

same thought of it makes me cringe lol

highly doubt it as the fog wiring isnt in a seperate section of loom its in with the lighting circuit

it will be in the loom. theres a 4 pin plug on the n/s of the car behind the bumper, you will then need the short section of loom that goes in the bumper that leads from this 4 pin plug to the 2 lights then you need the stalk

what you want a complete test check list? or door wise. the tester will do pre - mot checks before he even starts the test and this involves checking all doors open from the out side, therefore its not a fail as such its just a refusal to test as he cant get to the rear seatbelts/doorshuts etc...

dta will sell you a ecu with a complete tailord loom for a good price. best bloke to speak to is matt black, quick chat with him should sort you with most of the knowledge you need to make a decision

proper jealous, old fords are my first love and the cup is up there. v nice mish

unsure as to what to do with my conversion car,, its my everyday car that will be seeing a few track days when its finished. at the moment i've just got the electric rack and column on it just disconnected, which frankly is awful. bit too heavy (although i could live with this) but the main...

is it affected by temp? mine had it from 3/4 k,, but only when cold no codes on diagnostics tried data logging couldnt really see any irregularitys so just tried changing parts in the end it was the heater circuit in the lambda sensor

nope not a fail at all. long as the doors function as they should.

joking arent you - you are a technician and you are going to take an exhaust job to quik fit???? look at where its not crushing the gasket and see whats what might have a high spot etc

someone clear something up for me,, i thought stainless steel was just a higher carbon content than mild steel ??

whenever the poles from the carwash next door to work get bored really,, lol

shouldnt have drove it at all, the disc will be fcuked so new set of discs, and more than likely knackerd the piston +piston seal as its been over extended so new caliper too.

how bads the block. get a sanding block with some fine wet and dry, oil the wet and dry paper and give it a good going over see what it looks like long as its not pitted its fine

no dont use sealer goes on dry, block has to be clinically clean though and completely free from any oil what soever, cant stress that enough on sh*tty old engines with really pitted blocks you can use a bit of blue hylomar but not needed if the block surface is ok

you sure you are on about the head gasket or the cam cover gasket?

i've got a bit of a drivabilty issue with the same setup which is just a faulty lambda sensor (either that or it dosn't like the 182 one) got a flat spot between 3 and 4k,, but not heard of that. is it bang on 5k every time sounds like some sort of limp home

black one with a ring connectors an earth

bit of a vague list really hybrid turbo? what 2 turbos does it use what parts from? custom manifold? in what way whats done to it? same with the injectors, whats modified about them? whats been done to the inlet?

Re: 80% complete 172RWD! - updated its activated by oil pressure but the solenoid just opens and closes a valve to allow it to pressurise the dephaser actually work in a jag specialist garage, renaults are just my thing if you like.

they have a lot of people have done it, but really you need to torque those bolts to the correct settings and only ever do one at a time that cover holds the cams in and under/over torque or loss of torque will cause premature cam wear

Re: 80% complete 172RWD! - updated they dont really have a cam sensor only a depahser solenoid you may be confusing it with and it runs without this

Re: 80% complete 172RWD! - updated looks good aslong as you can find someone familiar or should i say willing to map it

and revving up when coming to a stop, mine does this with the speedo drive unplugged

the brakes noticably better mate? may go with this conversion for mine.

you found the hydraulic tappets yet? they are under the followers whack a pic of one up i'll show ya what i mean.