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cheers for comments people,, clio1990, give me a pm with regards to painting your door strips mate i can get them done off the car in your paintcode quite cheaply at the place next door to my work but if you want them properly matched ie blended in to paintwork another bloke i use will flick...

project looks the nuts! need a bit of advice if poss mate,, thats the pas pump im planning to use (saxo vts yeah?) what are you doing for lines? are they something only a specialist can make or can anybody do it with copper tubing and flaring tool like brake pipes maybe?? only looking at the...

yep 2nd is always the first to go time for a rebuild fella

yeah i need my airbag light checking as my sytem dosn't cover it

they are a bloody nightmare. i've not tried it with the 172 manifold on, but i've got a 182 manifold and had to take the plenam off to gain access and unbolt the exhaust manifold to get enough room. disconnected the battery earth and pushed it to one side, it fell back on to the battery terminal...

im fairly sure its in the uch. on the kangoo vans its a relay shaped box in the engine bay fusebox but i dont think clios have that (i didnt clock one anyway)

what size is the new one then mark? im a wondering what size to get aswell i have the same steering setup as you and even after a drive with the standard wheel my shoulders are numb lol

sikaflex! your flexible freind.. you'd be surprised how many parts of cars i've managed to glue on with this stuff

i always round the f*****s especially if someones had a go at them before. its dead easy to chisel them off though nice sharp chisel and a hammer one whack

unplug the temp sensor it should run permenantly if it dont its wiring/relay/fan and if it does its the temp sensor

i have only done non sports mate mines got an electric column and that dosn't have a master spline.. did a pas ph1 recently (changed a steering wheel) and neither did that as i forgot to mark where it was and it was pissed lol. i'd be surprised if sport columns do have a master spline as the...

if you think about it, if you can see the torx screws it dosnt matter how far you move the bumper you are still going to see them, the screws dont move with the bumper! you need to lower the bootlid down a bit if you want to hide those

you are wrong about the steering wheel fella. done a couple like that, including mine. its on a spline

dont like spacers mate bit of a bodge way of going about things imo. if i were to space the wheels out i'd make some blocks up to go behind the rear hub assembly and on the front i'd just fit 172 gear

im after a ktec stealth.. i liked the sleeper look too but the amount of times i just couldnt get over the fact that 172's just look alot better no two ways about it plus i think it looks extra nice in white :D

want to do front bumper wings and skirts now lol but then i'll have to buy a few bits to sort the front 172 running gear to bring the front wheels out think spacers are a bit bodge ahhh money !

yes, i know im loosing a bit of the sleeper appeal but sod it think it makes it look much better what ya reckon :cool:

had a rear bumper painted a few days ago (was painted on friday) .. buffed saturday afternoon and picked it up yesterday night. have used the body shop before they did a wing for me so i know they are good.. hes done it on the cheap as the bodyshop is next door to the garage i work at...

lol, i got the hump with mine and cut it off with a die grinder. never had a problem getting wiper arms off of any car before bit of wd and a good hard yank/pull and i normally get them off but my rear one wasnt moving for nothing

it pops off

fantastic wet dream inducing cars.. got a bloody great photo sticker of one on my toolbox at work

well done fella bout time something worked out for ya

yep.. self explanitory really the hook on the bottom hooks under the wiper arm screw acts against the threaded part on the actual motor do it up pulls the wiper arm off

beleive it or not powerflex dogbone bushes make it feel alot more nippy

god knows what you were sent mines awful weighs more than the car and didnt fit at all mid section angle was about 30 degrees wrong and backbox stuck out the back about a foot.. needed cutting and rewelding to make it fit nice without banging

well that ones taped up in the main section of loom that runs over the top of the gearbox.. the engine earths though theres one down by the starter motor bolted to the engine and another down in the passenger wheel arch goes from the box to the body and then the one that goes from the battery...

thats true, but they still tighten up in the same way (mk3 onwards im talking) bout 300 odd nm off the top of my head, cant overtighten the actual bearing if you tried. mk1+2 were adjustable though

yes it is possible, you have to undo the hubnut to take the drum off, and adjust the shoes up.. sometimes they stick on the axle a bit and never tighten back up quite right. they cant be overtightened by nature of the design dosn't matter how tight you do those bearings it wont overtighten as it...

different types of flare etc. got a wilwood bias valve... that has npt threads in it.. found some adaptors to go in to those which convert it to a 3/8 unfx24tpi male fitting.. found some female brake pipes nuts with the corresponding thread also.. but.. unlike the metric stuff im used to...

cv joint possibly