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wont be a new hub will only be the hub flange and a wheel bearing kit.
you could helicoil those (a helicoil is a spring shaped insert you repair threads with) and it would be perfectly fine - but for peice of mind i'd change the flange.. try matt black for one he may even stock the wheel bearing
only logical thing i can come up with is top mount, possibly bent shock absorber..
you wont have cracked anything, wont have done anything to the rack, its unlikely wishbone bushes have suffered, same with ball joints and wouldnt give those symptoms..
best thing you can do imo is give it a...
they are bloody awful
yeah ideally you need to put the motor in then adjust them with the allen key on the motor
if not you have to unclip the motor blanking thing, take it out and manually thread the screw in or out and guess at how much
silly idea. when i had mine fitted even after i aimed...
i dont have autodata on this pc but i will help you to understand how they are routed you should be able to figure it out.
1. starting at the crank pulley, it turns clockwise, so the longest run is going to be to the right of that pulley, so the engine can pull the belt as opposed to push it...
i cant really comment on this one as i havn't measured.. but i did a 182 head recently,, and im sure the exhaust ports were larger than that of my ph2 172 head.. and the ex ports in my 172 head are only half cnc'd ie not quite so far in to the valve area
Re: South Mimms meet - May 08
cheers for the pics !
was a good meet nice to put some names to some faces.
foxy, yep solid top mounts.
they are cack, they came loose after a little while driving - no biggy but went to tighten them and they have locked absolutely solid.
took a sledge hammer...
yeah it would, but it would need to see quite alot of air to cause a problem. as it would think its running lean
the second lambda dosnt affect running/emmisions so its more than the downstream lambda at fault.
what light is on, the yellow one thats in the shape of an engine? you do know thats...
let her know im spotting her mate seen here every morning down mawney road, mines the white clio.
as i seem to get a bit of a tunnel vision thing when im sat drooling over it lol.
yeah cars running a cat you see anything from 0 CO to 0.5 ish,,, older cars can be right up to .15 or so, you are allowed .20 for the MOT..
mines about 3.0% lol
youll need to modify your subframe.
if you want to make it easy you'l need door looms and possibly rear loom (my plugs were different but many peoples who have done it are the same)
you will need the dash loom, ecu, uch, transponder ring and key from the donor car, will also need chassis number...
valver crank could be a plan, shorter stroke though i think? so block will want facing down or could possibly use 172 rods with the crank you'd need to mix and match and see what you can come up with really.
if it were me id pull the 1.8 apart and see what youve got
to answer that question yes you can fail on a wiper blade,
driver needs a clear veiw of the road...
can also fail on cracks in screen, stickers/tax discs etc in swept area of windscreen, magic trees/bibles/kitchen sinks hanging from the rear veiw mirror (that ones anoys the hell out of me)
shove some rags in the back box.
sounds like a t**t, how loud is the thing.
its down to tester decision a decibel meter isnt part of the mot equipment,
you can fail on it but tbh its unheard of on cars
btw, im not joking
just gaffa tape some rags in the backbox.
hes only got to hear it, then...
yep its quite common we have had a few issues with various companies
budget windscreens did mine and broke a scuttle panel clip didnt make an issue though
blame any other scratches on the front of your car you may have on the installer too, will be no questions asked ;)
its hard to explain, imagine a flat plate bolted up under the original exhaust mount (you know the 3 13mm's)
this then gives you something to weld the bent peice of roundbar too, that sits over the second hanger. then an exhuast rubber joins the two