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the magnex should come with a plate, that bolts up under the exhaust mount and goes across and attaches to the other hanger the pissing things so heavy it needs the extra mount the exhaust cant hold it and you cant buy center sections on there own, custom job to fit that mate unless you can...

lol, good luck. im surprised you managed to get it to fit. when i fitted my magnex(whenever i fit an exhaust i start at the back and work forwards) i positioned the backbox where it sat nicest, slotted the middle section in to that and the end that is supposed to bolt to the cat was pointing...

no you cant do it yourself unless you have a tyre changer. and a garage will charge you a tenner, how cheap do you want !?

they will fit, but wont lower it, think the front will actually sit higher than when you started. the front of my car has a coilover-esque stance on standard 1.2 shocks and 40mm eibachs with the 182 engine,, due to the extra weight

easy, to change. its one motor that reverses polarity for front/rear. you are suppose to take wipers and then the scuttle panel off to get at it, i just undo the forward to clips lift it up a bit and get my hand in there

you dont want it overfueling at all. you actually want the fuel shut off on overun, and alter the ignition timing on overun. throwing fuel down it does nothing but cool the egt's and the exhaust is nowhere near hot enough to begin with to ignite fuel.

no, but you need it out the way to change the pipes

will look nicer tommorow, i've sent the elfs round to unbolt your header tank for me:evil:

seems a bit drastic to go slating ecus before checking the battery terminals are even bolted back on, i reckon its something simple if not battery then an earth, the ecu wouldnt cause you to loose instrument panel and accesory power.

is your battery terminal loose?

for front i mean, if rear half hour.

id charge an hour labour. no more than that

mine

lol, only posted to cheer you up pal

its not really scoring its more bearing melted all over it.. i couldnt decide for myself its definately saveable i've seen much worse but it depends what choices of shells i can find.

lol i have taken a chunk out of a mondeo disc with a club hammer in the past. bastad still didnt come off - thats when they angle grinder came out. that was an N plate car though!

oh, and ive NEVER EVER took heat to a disc before and i wouldnt reccomend it.... whack it harder it will come off. short of that, get a cutting disc on a grinder and cut straight up the face of the disc (the bit the pad rubs on) all the way up to where the face the wheel bolts to is,, do it...

whack it, you'll have to go some to bend a hub. try changing them on mondeos that have never seen discs before. i've done hundreds and only once have i had to resort to cutting it with an angle grinder and split it with an airchisel. dont be shy and give it some

especially not in your face, it hurts lol.

downfall is you need the uch and key aswell from the matching vehicle

it missifre at all? tappet may have come loose or maybe even just want adjusting

you should be able to work that one out for yourself, how thick is the tread on the tyres? if its 8mm like new, the screw will hardly have scratched the surface of the actual flat part below the tread. if they are bald theres no tread there to protect and probably is a hairs thickness away...

another one, going to be a bit of a back burner project.. going highcomp, h section rods, headwork etc etc dont think funds will allow cams but we shall see

anywhere, measure the size you need then phone a parts supplier euros gsf mpd local places etc etc etc

not much of an update to speak of, i've fitted a bias valve and sorted the brake lines. and............ i'll never be satisfied lol.

exactly, you get alot more "bite" from drums due to the self servo action,, the extra bite is required to initiate a drift, and as you lot with discs will know the handbrakes on calipers (the inboard drum setups arent so bad) are frankly awful.

partly aesthetics, mainly down to customer demand. i'm not denying discs are the better option, but i'll happily argue the fact that drums are MORE than up to the job for my application, as 1 i've done it and tested and 2 i know of plently of cars knocking on the doors of 3 times the power/...

come back to me when you know what you are talking about. did i mention fitting a veyron engine? do you have brake rollers at your disposal? assuming the answers to the above are yes, take a clio with rear discs, and a clio with rear drums and put both in the rollers and tell me the...

no they wont. drums pull up just as well (infact better) than discs. my 172's on 1.2 brake setup and refuse to change it as it stops me from 120+ effortlessly and quickly

oh, and with the temp sensor unplugged the ecu thinks its -40 degrees, but the fan failsafes in the ON position.