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well first off sort the airlock in the coolant sytem that wont be helping matters at all. once you've sorted that pull the plug off see if the fan runs. if it does thats elminated everything bar the temp sensor. if it dosn't you need to start trouble shooting. i did a 1.2 8v mk2 ph1 not long...

so you rounded the torx on both bolts then proceeded to round the 17mm hex on them aswell? you deserve a medal

rounding the heads is physically impossible imo especially when you've got two shots at it torx and 17mm you'll snap them before youd round the heads

mine were good and seized just spray some wd up from under the car if you are really having probs

decat for 100 quid? any more info on that one mate as im having bad cases of tight wallet syndrome paying ktec 120 quid for a straight bit of pipe for a ph2 btw

what car are we talking here? if it has 3 wires the fan probably runs through the ecu.. in which case its just a sensor its not a switch, then when up to a certain temp the ecu grounds the fan relay out (has a perm live on the switch side) and the fan runs if you unplug it (and it is that set...

try bridging the live on the amp to the remote terminal on the amp disconnect the remote that runs to the headunit first though

what all the same degree of modification etc? have you checked your tyre pressures?

172 ps is 166.6 hp is it not? 4hp down isnt too terrible really considering

i will let you know end of this week. edde reckons just giving it power to the rack and a live to the motor it will work - but will be really light so if you wire a speed pulse to it it will be better. im not to optimistic but i shall give it a go

if he is on about the actuating arm for the bias valve the mechanics dont know what they are on about - they arent fitted from the factory because of the lack of abs

i use to tell everyone that thought a pulling tool was just something people thought they needed as they werent trying enough untill i tried to get my rear wiper arm off fronts come off dead easy but the rear i ended up getting the hump with and cutting it off with a die grinder :rasp:

oh and the filter you are talking about is a capacitor and its soldered directly to the bottom of the standard tweeters - so they are binned with the old tweeters nothing to worry about

nope, i did mine that way

it is popular over here but its not a done thing to just decide you want more compression. its more engine builders put together an engine that they calculate from the ground up to accheive whatever it is they want to accheive

got to admit i agree completely with stan. if i were to tell you it was 1mm, you went away with that information skimmed 1mm off the head bolted it all together started it up and it bent all your valves you would be pretty anoyed wouldn't you. i think the only answer you are going to get mate is...

got one laying about?:D

right im gathering parts today for the conversion... going pretty well found everything i need except i've just looked at my samco induction pipe for the 172 and heres me thinking i could use the pipercross i had on my 1.2 with it well needless to say its like slinging a sausage up oxford...

just got mine ready for the conversion along with the coolant hoses (thanks tim) if anything its jut nice to put it together with a few quality parts.. worth the money for that alone if you know what i mean

any responses you get can and will only be based on guess work - it needs looking at.. but from what little information you have given im saying blocked cat.

you cant do it that way - you need to change the front door speakers for components (these come as a seperate tweeter and woofer) you need to do it that way as renault tweeters have a capacitor built in to them to perform the job of a cross over on proper components. so basically the wiring is...

i changed the whole lot on mine - its dead easy i personally would rather do it the way i did than drill the rivets out and all that 2 nuts and bolts and a clip couldnt be simpler

its not linked to the ac as such - the ecu constantly trys to keep the engine running at a set rpm on idle. so when you put aircon on the extra load brings the revs down so the idle control valve bypasses air and brings it back up. try putting the car in first and very slowly disengage the...

me neither - and we all know renault wiring. prob something stupid like a dry connecter

belt off, rockers off then slide the cam out. no need for head to come off and its dead easy held in with a thrust plate at the end

yeah you do - exact same set up as the rear - except the flange is pressed through the middle aswell. as for your problem - its either the middle 2 races are seperated or the bearings wrong,, all it can be

alot of peugeots/renaults etc use that set up

they can be hammered in if you are carefull about it. i had a r5gtt private job to do rear discs and pads and had a choice of driving to work and pressing them in or hammer then in. guess what i went for :lolup: the only way you can really do it is if you have an old bearing laying around...

got to admit - you are going to have to swallow it a bit as its partly your fault for not doing research

funnily enough i have seen a landrover with a locked diff going sideways down a muddy hill i'll grant you and said landrover ended up on its roof but hey. only reason its easier to drift with a locked diff is both wheels are constantly spinning at the same rate ever tried driving a landrover...