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no im not getting confused, if you throw a car in to a corner the forces that act on the inside front wheel are trying to push what ever they are in that direction to the middle of the car - and the thing that gives the most in the front is the top mounts and obviously the front suspension legs...

dont matter wether its front or rear wheel drive it still needs a diff to go round corners. hence the reason rwd cars with welded diffs go sideways

sounds like its missfiring to me, but to be fair if a miss fire isnt something you are familiar with you may not have a lot of luck diagnosing it - best get it in a garage asap before the cat burns up

cant really see an awful lot of point in this as on a rear beam setup the shocks dont provide any support to the suspension set up like the fronts do.

thats just a universal backbox they sell in motor discount shops for 50 odd quid new. the rust mark around the box is where a band used to live to hold it to the exhuast bracket and it looks too short. can be made to fit with some old bits of exhaust that most garages have laying around dont let...

well its obvious why more compression more power provided on many other factors just not sure if he knows how to do so only real way to see how far to go is 1 cut a head in half and see what sort of material you have to work with and 2 figure out valve clearence etc

are you on about skimming the head? altering cams isnt going to affect the cr

no im not looking to to do it, the whole front end is going 172 as im getting the lot from matt black, but i figured if the track difference was indeed in the hub flanges id just press the 1.2 flanges in to new bearings on the 172 hubs and suck the wheels back in.

as per the title really - cant really see where they could have built the wider track in to the car, as traditionally it would be a difference in the hubs,, but i've read on here hubs are the same?? cant be in the wishbones as the bodys are the same across the range and the camber would be out...

guess i could just put the valve somewhere out the way.. how is yours electrics wise anything i should know or is it just literally unplugged and binned.

right 172 conversion is going ahead in my car slowly but surely been colecting parts and the bulk of it is being ordered from matt black mid this week. i want to delete the abs system as one its useless and 2 for ease of fitting. couple of questions - is the standard master cyl still usable, i...

could be alot of things unfortunately need a bit more description vid would be good

i may be imagining it but down bumpy lanes as speed increases im fighting with the wheel less to keep the thing straight the front end does feel softer though

my car has one end link snapped on the anti roll bar, havnt got round to fitting a replacement yet but to be honest i prefer the way it handles without the front arb

unless its blatently obvious like its got atf or engine oil in it both are quite easy to tell apart from gbox oil then they cant

you have good taste mate - comp mo are my favourite wheel of all time and are planned for mine when i get the conversion sorted.

need to do a leak test on it ideally so you can rule out rings

if ya fancy a trip to dagenham il do it for a drink

as said what is it you need to know, as you cant really see piss all with the cam cover off the rest is coverd by the cam carrier and with that off the cams are loose

what engine

it dosnt make an awful lot of difference fred will vouch for this if you have good handtools and know how to use them on a job like that it will add 5 mins max to the job rebuilding heads and jobs like that with alot of nuts/bolts air ratchets help alot

fcuking is somehting to worry about - you are lucky you didnt end up with bits off diff in the cabin with you

yeah but you are on coilovers - the point of this thread is how low can you go on standard shocks before you start having probs.

i've done 9k (40kmiles in total) miles on my -40mm eibachs and both my front shocks are absolutely obliterated.

was it laser tracked. swap the front and rear tyres see if that makes a difference i had the same thing got it tracked (before i went in the wheel was straight) drove it out after i had it tracked and the steering wheel was quite badly off center. never got round to going back and when i fitted...

what is it you want to know?

exactly the plan mate. and i know what you mean about the box after some speedbumps today bounces up and down all over the shop

self tapping screws just tap out an existing hole self drilling screws drill + tap the hole out otherwise known as speed screws

well theres no need to bed the brakes in then? and even if you did feel the need to do it that way why 100 mph? when you do drive it, you will be lucky if you havnt blown the diff to bits just noticed you said one of the wheels was spinning backwards. diffs probably knackered