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the engine finds it easier to turn the wheels in 1st gear, therefor the wheels find it easier to turn the engine in 5th.
so reverse is best to stop the car moving (as its lower still than first) and first gear is next best.
its not worth it, its just as much work as doing a 172 conversion, and being as though its a right mare to do if you dont end up with 1*2 power at the end of it you will be good and proper dissapointed.
you cant get powerflex ones unfortunately, you are best of getting standard renault ones (or tbh for the rear one i found the bosal one better) and modify them with some bits of tube to stiffen them up a bit
all systems in the car are linked.
my car (well the car my wiring looms came from) was the same had abs and a speedo sensor,,
clip is renaults diagnostic computer, all you do is plug it in and configure it to take the speed signal from the abs as opposed to the speedo drive
oh, and 172 calipers dont fit 1.2 hubs
172 shocks dont fit 1.2 hubs and if you fit the shocks and hubs you'll also need shafts and wishbones + antiroll bar
if you get a conversion from matt black you get all the running gear with it for 1500 quid best off doing that
my 182 engined 1.2 is still on 1.2 brakes and running gear and it seems to stop quite well on the 1.2 brakes
they fade quite quick though so im going to sort some 4pots for the...
provided your car actually has ABS, no its all there, you dont need to get anything.
its not from any wheel in particular it needs all 4 sensors to calculate it
it just needs configuring on clip
i've never really got my head round it either i really cant see the turrets flexing to the point they need bracing or i would have thought they would suffer with cracked weld and alsorts if that were the case
can imagine tieing the front and rear of the car together is worthwhile though, ie a...
its not the map sensor but you have got me thinking
an airleak could give those sort of symptoms i suppose, i have a feeling i may have trapped a plug lead under the plenham im wondering if its not sitting down completely square
will check that when i do the plugs
its quite bad thought ie floor it and you get no power at all almost like you switch the ignition off for a second then it will missfire and pick up like normal
throttle bodys clean, temp sensor i suppose is a possibilty but it seems to be working ok
on live data the temp increases so all seems well
just weird how its perfect once hot
i've only got the lambda before the cat plugged in too, doubt this would affect it?
got a slight issue with the 182 lump..
when its not up to full operating temperature, if you snap the throttle open it bogs down and will then pick up, will do this everytime you snap the throttle untill its up to full operating temp
i know you dont need to be flooring it from cold before...
where are you venting the tank to?
at the moment its just unplugged underneath the car but obviously need to sort something proper
any ideas?
im thinking block it and make some sort of a vent in the filler neck or something
also, can i just plug a resistor in the solenoid plug to make...
both faults are related mate, the ecu needs a speed signal to adjust revs accordingly while slowing down etc
the fact that you get the running fault aswell tells me its more then likely speed sensor
change the g/box sensor should sort both
hi from sunny essex?????
dont know where you're from but hello from me in artic essex.
not strictly a 182, but you may well see my white 182 powered 1.2 around your area!
its a sod to change dash top off as the wire runs behind everything and plugs direct in to the back of the little clock screen in the middle of the dash