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everythings 1.2 at the mo bar the engine and box.
its got ebc pads and hc discs and its just 1.2 shocks on eibachs
gonna treat myself to some coilovers just as soon as i decide what im going to do running gear wise
oh i've still got to fit a bias valve and make new brake lines
vids coming...
IT RUNS!!!
bloody well too, all thats left now is bolt the bumper up and roberts your fathers brother
off to the RR lol
may give it an oil change before its officially back on the road, drop any accumulated s**t out
tbh i think thats harder than what i've done as you'll have to try figure out all the other functions yourself such as all the clocks interior functions etc
engine management was never really a problem with mine (as it turns out) it was just wiring up the doors, lights, and rear of the car...
lol have a laugh its enough of a sod fitting a 2l from a alike car
my original plan was to put a zetec turbo in my clio but sense took over
wish i had now would have probably been bloody easier
Re: 70% complete 172RWD!
so, fuel pump primes, then stops running?
theres a tiny little earth wire that switches the relay via the ecu
if you earth it out (or just power the pump up manually) will it run no problem?
same as i'm doing mate
problem with a manual rack that actually comes as a manual rack is it will be about 2.5 turns to lock where as the ones we are using are 1.5
almost like a quick rack when coupled with a normal column
"a 172/182 engine, loom, box and ECU"
its not anywhere remotely even slightly that simple,
from my experiance you need a
172 engine and box
all accosiciated pipe work
rad
all ancilerys
engine,dash, rear and door looms
ecu, uch, decoder ring, key and details from the car
all fuel/vacum lines inc...
was it for an electric steering setup mike? didnt know they did a dci with manual steering,,
mines got the standard 1.2 rack that was used when it had the 1.2 electric steering setup at the mo, seems to have quite a nice feel to it without it being electric any more
well relatively speaking its a simple headgasket to do,,
but yeah its an involved job requires cam timing setting tappets torquing head to correct specs etc etc
easy if you know how i guess
tbh its brakes you are messing with you dont want to wrap your misses round a tree
best find someone who knows how to do them to give you a hand
the dust covers are on the back two little round rubber caps
they can, inlet manifold of, and depending on how you attack it you may want to remove the os arch liner so you can turn the crank or you can just jack one side up put it in gear and turn the wheel
you need a 7mm allen key so make sure you have one before you start
its self explanitory really, jack up wheels off look at calipers pull the clip off the front of the caliper.
undo the 7mm sliders behind the dust covers caliper comes off
undo caliper bracket remove disc then fittings reverse of...
or loose the arch liners, its the wrong way to go about things changing suspension geometry just to stop rubbing, you only do that if its needed ie you need the extra camber on the rear forwhat ever handling reason
fit the manifold yourself mate, especially considering you are ok doing it yourself you dont want to be paying someone else labour for sodding about fitting that
i'm just going to pop down there, it only needs to be a bodge for now just want it all in place for renault wednesday then i'll sort something properly
cheers
it depends it would normally happen after being operated,, having said that im not too familar with the alarm setup some of these 172's have (about all i can tell you about them is how well it bounces in the bottom of the skip) although if the hazards are wired through it its a possibility as it...
front fogs are in no way shape or form testable, 100% as im doing a testers course,, aslong as they dont have a broken lense or sharp edges you're laughin