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its how you do it though - try crusing along constant revs constant throttle postition then reset the trip and watch it go up to stupid numbers like 80. then constantly on and off the throttle watch it fall to 20

really depends alot on how you drive. aircon on + driving enthusiasticly ranging to really trying to be economical i get anywhere from 20 to 50mpg.

yes and no - you can use a turbo and indivudal throttle bodies - as mentioned the toyota 4ag and the nissan sr20det both use throttle bodies with forced induction.. but the throttle bodies need to be sealed - ie capable of running forced induction otherwise they will not function. same way back...

reverse lights are not testable in any way shape or form. front foglights are not testable in any way shape or form - the only time they become testable is if the lense is cracked and causing a sharp edge - the operation of the light isnt testable. and headlamp lenses are only a fail when a...

What! of course you do, they are required to work with the ignition off (part of the mot test) and with the engine running.

quite alot of interest down this end of the country then, whack the details up if you would please mate, im the same as deb wont be getting it done till the weather gets better but might aswell gather the info up now.

spoiler?

run over something and it got caught in a wheel?

dont cut the wrong wire then, couldnt be simpler to locate what does what using a power probe. is your oil pressure gauge electrical signal or mechanical? if its mechanical you dont want to run the copper piping all the way to the passenger side then back to the other side up the pillar. and you...

yeah any sort of 3 jaw puller will get it off or anything that resembles that i did look for my puller but came to the grinder first:evil:

sold:lolup: cheers

def said they were 4 stud fitment only thing im really worried about is i once layed a 16inch wheel from a mondeo up against it and they looked huge compared to the 15s on it

before you do any of that it needs diagnosing imo. save you throwing parts it may or may not need at it

im guessing yes? thanks

you also find some of the cheaper stainless exhausts are welded together using mild steel welding wire. which rusts fairly quickly

cooling systems are designed to run at 1 bar (its only 14.7 psi) the bolt wont shoot off in the same way that all the other various engine hoses wont shoot off, just make sure its a tight fit. dont think you understand about how i connect it though, from the tyre pump, all i have is a plain...

i made my own pressure tester. we have a proper sykes pickavant one at work that i found useless because the caps for the expansion bottles you get either leak or loose pressure. all i got was a bike tyre pump with a pressure gauge on it and cut the valve off. hey presto one coolant system...

i gathered that, just wondering why you think it needs replacing in an effort to stop you spending your money on something that may or may not fix your problem

apart from mercs :rasp:

why do you need a new one ?

no its not really a possibilty if it had an airleak it would have ran crap before and it wouldnt be enough of a leak to do any damage to hydraulic it you would need to pour water in to the inlet, and no it wouldnt be running like you have described. if you say it smells of petrol i guess it...

whack a picture up of the light if possible

through the backbox? sounds stupid but i've seen it happen before water sits in it and the second it warms up you get loads of white steam it wont have gone down the inlet as the engine would have just hydraulicd and locked up if that were the case probably bent a rod. theres no component in the...

short of that, chop the threaded stud off the one you have, drill a hole throuh it and use a nut and bolt.

can you not just use a nut and bolt? it dosn't look to complicated a peice just use a bolt and if it does actually need the elongated part on the bottom it wouldnt be hard to find a big washer or even make one from sheet.

have you filled the exhaust with water. you say this car runs ok? if so - take it for a blast down the carrige way i bet it will clear.

when you put a bolt in wonkey it feels like it tightens up but its not actually clamping anything. get somebody who knows what they are looking at to check them imo you dont want to kill yourself

no it shouldnt do that. is the caliper tight? and not cross threaded

you cant really hear the car tbh, but it only does it off boost like anti lag would. its not always overly loud depends how the exhaust is set up as all antilag basically does is advance the timing so that combustion happens when the exhaust valve is still open.. expanding gasses spin the turbo...

they dont come round on the dot - sooner you arrange it sooner you get it done.