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I don't think the sensor after the cat really does anything, it's the one before the cat that causes issues

You would need someone to redraw it into vector format like .svg or .eps Something like this: Not perfect as I don't know the original font but easy to do and even easier with @Hixle's find. Will get it packaged up into both formats and dm you

Give it a go! Stick a brick/paving behind the chocks if you are unsure and just go slowly. Hopefully it will rise better and you can get the height on the stands, it can be a real chew on without the room to work

In my experience handbrake on only causes issues. As the suspension is locked the rear beam twists down and moves the car while you are jacking. That way the wheels twist and not the chassis. Its not terrible when you lift the first side but I have had the car almost fall off the axle stand...

Handbrake off when you lift. Car moves in weird directions when the wheels are locked. The weight of the car needs to shift to allow the jack to roll under

I have no idea about resistor packs or blowers, but if the blower is working and there is no air it could be a split cog for the airflow selector. In the drivers footwell behind the centre console part there are lots of servos that select the hot to cold, where the air goes etc. These often...

Its just plastic similar to the pov spec ones but with metallic flake Nothing has changed in the year since doing it

Do you leave the handbrake on? Car shouldn't shift while lifting, jack should roll towards the car to compensate for any movement

Elbow Grease Spray / Cream Cleaner + Microfibre and warm water got mine off. Wasn't the easiest or quickest thing to do but I really wanted to keep the metallic finish (that the pov spec interiors don't have)

Mine did this, full flush with Motul Dexron III has quiet it down. I have also had a leak through a cracked switch which wouldn't of helped. I also have a spare pump to try if the noise comes back 🙈

@182Trev You have to play around and reformat the URL: https://cliosport.net/threads/172-182-gearbox-change-clutch.258911/

My MOT centre shrugged and said "bring it in and we will find out...." Thanks pal I think it needs to be caged with harnesses minimum as they replace the airbag, bonus points if it's stripped as nobody sane does that to a road car

Box sections under the car about a foot in from the front sills behind the subframe plates, I use a piece of wood on the jack. I have seen people jack up using the subframe directly but some have experienced bending. Lifting the back can be done from the rear beam as @Matt Cup suggests

Helicoil the helicoil

15 seconds of ugga-duggas should sort it out

I have a metal elbow, not an RS2 inlet, but use the 120mm PRORAM cylindrical filter It's thin enough to get in and out without removing the battery (just)

As long as its 4x100 60.1mm bore with the same rolling radius it will be fine (probably 195/55/15, loads of online calculators online to check). Probably best looking for a 15" alloy or steel wheel from a non-RS, or get like-for-like as @Advikaz suggests.

Best thing to do, ECU is mounted on the back of the rocker that will need changing, and the TB wiring is integrated into the thick rocker loom Spiteful piece of french engineering

https://www.renaultbreakers.co.uk/store/Renault-Clio-MK2-2001-2006-12-16v-Complete-Induction-Kit-D4F-712/00030869/ K&N or custom made plate adapter for a 712 is the easiest route.

Do you love the car? Pay for the work Want to try something new? Somebody on here will snap it up It's a sort of lose-lose situation, either you pay for the work to up the car value or the value drops significantly because it needs so much work As @daveski says the maintenance is nothing out...

I find it hard to be at meets that early unless I have plans afterwards for the day. If I can make it to one will turn up earlier then - might get better as it gets warmer into the year 🤞

Not mine but I live near, never heard of Slip and Grip until now. What time do they start and when did you arrive out of interest?

300 looks great but as mentioned 280 would make life easier. I have 3mm between calliper and wheel and stuck using 16's. I bought the car with, but if I was doing it again I would go 280 for greater wheel selection.

That gap in the top mount is normal. Go solid top mounts plus BCs if you are worried

My understanding is these engines are quite sensitive to timing, I personally wouldn't risk it as it will be wrong for years after the fact. Not seen any 'good' reviews over the years on being on the forum but happy to be told otherwise

I find this quite important when I get my belts done

It could be: Blocked drains, rubber seal between car and glass or the silicone seal between the sunroof mount and the car. Take the sunroof glass out and pour some water into the drains either side and see if the water drops out behind the front wheel. If the water is draining then it is most...

Are you leveling the lights with the engine on? I don't think the lights level/save position correctly if not Also is the arm the adjuster connects too in one piece? Edit: ignore the last bit, if it wasn't it would have have come out with it

Hi, is this still available?

JMRS make replacement strips