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Fixed mine doing exactly this

Did it with a 6mm 😅

I want to do mine but I have a small speaker sub in the way. Anybody running no seat-spacers and an aftermarket sub that fits under?

I believe they just raise the seat an arbitrary amount. I have seen people recommend swapping them for washers to lower a few mm - or binning them completely as @leeds2592 has suggested

Still on the forum, this is the for sale ad under his user: https://cliosport.net/threads/172-turbo-sold.836783/

When my dogbone went I only had gears 3-5 due to misalignment ☠️ Could have joined a bobsleigh team after I perfected the 5-point-push-turn

Hydrate-80 by Bilt Hamber is the most recommended rust converter/treatment on here if that helps. Ignore me if you know about it!

Part no 6: 7701045041 Cant find any new ones for sale. I would suggest rust treating the old one (if surface rust). Otherwise try finding one at a breakers, they do come up on Ebay every so often if you are willing to wait. PartSouq Link for image and part numbers

Do you have a multimeter to test that the positive live and the accessory live are working as intended in the car? Im pretty sure I had to reverse the connectors on my Sony unit, as in: Red ---> Yellow Yellow ---> Red

Looks like you need and ISO to 16 pin connecter, if @SharpyClio can grab an image for you it should make more sense

I used a strip of window tint on the inside as a sun strip. Cuts down on sun glare while being able to see through it

Jack the car up and stick it on wheel dollies? If its only got the handbrake on you should only need two for the rears

Very envious! Exact clio I want to move two when I can justify something more than my 1.2!

Really annoyed I can't go to this, I work down the road in Weybridge. Very familiar with the area and Benz World, hope the event goes well and that there will be a next one.

Fitted these last year to my 2001 1.2L 16v. Easiest way to tell (I think) is the bolt spacing to the knuckle.

New tool workflow: Buy new tool Start more challenging job's using new tool Break Something Buy more tools to rectify my actions

I textured that 3D model 😂 Never thought I would see some of my work on the Clio forum, of all places...

Found the thread: https://cliosport.net/threads/tomotek-182-track-build-here-we-come.748126/page-8#post-11233226

The lie every Clio owner tells themselves

I remember seeing a thread in which the powerflex bushing had to be cut down as the bushing itself was too big for mount. Looking at your image, the left side had too much material and he had to cut it down

I think it is: MILWAUKEE M12FIW38-0 12V M12 FUEL 3/8IN IMPACT WRENCH Maximum torque: up to 339 Nm Anvil: 3/8in Length: 125 mm RPM: upto 2700 IPM: 0-3200

2:30

I fully blame @Romanian Shlong Stroker

Have you tried turning it on and off?

Is it only the light that has gone? If so there are a few things that can be done: 1) The PCBs are the same in other Clio brake lights so you can replace the PCB only 2) Replace the PCB with a 12V red LED strip 3) Worth trying to clean the contacts. Mine wouldn't work properly until I cleaned...

Echoing others here hub-centric spacers with longer bolts + correct torque (120Nm) = no issues here, run 20mm on the front and 15mm on the back with 16" 182 wheels

I checked the top mount with sockets, the bottom is from memory. I think the nut on the back of the dogbone is a size up from its bolt. I think I put an adjustable wrench on the nut and undone the bolt with a socket. (My socket set goes upto 20mm so it can't be larger then that)

No worries, will mark up some pics for you tonight

Really easy, the dogbone is just two bolts under the engine. Unless you are really flexible you will need to jack the front up to get at them. If you end up doing the top mount you need to jack up the engine from the bottom to support it. I can grab bolt torques for you after work if you...