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I run with 2 people in tricolore trophy race series who run them , nick Gwinnet and tony hunter
bloody hard to keep up with and they have had no problems with them.
nick at puremotor sport is a top bloke and will give you any help you need, get all my spares from there
its a fairly easy job but you will need the cam out to make it easier.
use a gas torch to heat up the end to burn the locktight.
then drill a small hole in the stud and use a easy out to remove it. if there is enough of the stud protruding then weld a nut to it and then remove it that way.
So a little update
Managed to get the car into Paul at tpw engineering , #king_tuna1 for mapping and what a job he did. Can’t recommend him enough , really knows his stuff.
Ended up with 243bhp and 196ft lbs torque , which is way more than I was expecting. Lots more low down pull aswell.
So had a play with the car this weekend . Got the fire extinguisher serviced for the last time as from 2022 it has to be a 4ltr with min 4 nozzles.
Also string lined the car and was surprised that it wasn’t too far out from setting it up from last year.
Just mapping left to do early feb ready...
Well she’s all in and run up to temp with no problems this time
Even managed to wire up a knock sensor as suggested by my mapper.
Next getting the string line out and check all cambers and toe then off for mapping.
So bit of an update.
After a few issues with oil leaks then overheating lost all faith in the engine so have pulled it out and stripped it. (Was built by someone else) .
Glad I did as although it has had some big money spent on it the build quality is a bit rough. Found loose bolts cheap water...
Bit more progress tonight. Got the engine wired up and a quick test run before connecting the rad back in.
All seams good and engine sounds well.
Only thing I have noticed is the increase in vibration with the pms mounts, also it sits a bit lower as can no longer fit front gearbox mount but...
We’ll manage to grab a couple of ours on the old girl tonight.
Got gearbox fitted , some of the new pms mounts . fitted my sensors and got it in the car.
It’s surprising how much more room there is without the standard mounts.
No . Class a is fully modified , but no forced induction (unless original to production car and within Msa regs )and max of 0.5 mm overbore. No sequential boxes.
Class b is modified but standard engine , inlet and exhaust manifolds.
Class f is production car with no mods.
Power to weight has...
Well After a fantastic season getting runner up in class a and also getting driver of the year I though I would do a thread to help promote track attack race club , and the tricolore trophy which I race in.
So car is stripped down getting checked over ready for next years racing .
yep i run lots of Ryobi stuff for home, got the grinder , drills , impact gun , chainsaw, light, vacume,
all good and works well.
b&q sell it all aswell and have some good deals on.
best to buy the kits with the 5ah or 4ah batterys works out a lot cheaper than buying them seperate
thanks for the offer but not sure what that is to be fair.
the standard sensor has 2 pins but not sure what wires go to it on the original loom as mine is standalone.
now i have been told that the standard sensor is a resonant type but have no idea how to wire it in .
the omex manual says that...
I run a omex 600 ecu in my clio race car and currently have no knock sensor but when I have stripped my engine as end of season all the pistons have signs of detonation on them and are now scrap.
so I need to fit a sensor for when I rebuild it as I cant afford for that to happen...
hi , I am building a high compression engine and was thinking about getting the crank balanced and lightened.
can anyone recommend somewhere in the northwest that will do it and roughly how much it costs.
many thanks rob