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maybe i'm simplifying what I've done. But the bonnet and tailgate are already FG, The only interior items are the door handles, drivers 4kg bucket seat and seatbelt. I didn't weigh it before but the weights down to 697kg. Only other changes were a full service and cone intake filter.
It'll never happen, I face my enemies head on.
well I've increased my MPG from 38.6 to 59.4 by just stripping the interior. The doors weigh more than the seats. I'm not into guesstimating but i've got my fingers crossed for 65MPG+
If I get an answer to the question
I had a tracked clio with the pillars reinforced with copper pipe. Sorted that problem. Besides I'm not really planning to do 90 in a 1.2 on the road.
They open, they close, they're not supporting the structure of the car. Not an MOT fail, but i'd prefer to...
I’ve been stripping out my daily (1.2 mk2) and trying to get the mpg up for a while now. I’ve been considering grp doors, bonnet and tailgate but I’m a bit concerned about the mot verdict.
The mot test manual has no reference to fibreglass, or any specific materials but I can almist here the...
What you want to do is unzip the upholstery and push it all as far out of the way as possible. Then weld an extension bar onto the rear bolt and really weld the f&ck out of it. Like kill it with flux kind of weld. Once the new bonded extension is cold, SLOWLY! Turn the bolt back and forth while...
Weld. It is literallly the easiest and quickest method. A few sheets of tin foil will stop any splatter, if you care about your alloys hat much.
It takes seconds and you don't look like a window licker hammering and drilling at something for hours just to have to rethread the hub.
You'll be lucky if your rac tech has one in his van. How common do you think those tools are? There's a clue in the price. £170 for a tool that only has one real use compared to a half decent arc welder?
Take it to a garage and they'll be using a welder because they know a tool that does many...
That method won't work. Most people get it back to front. If you can get all the other gears in then it probably means the faults with the gear knobs lift function or the linkage fixing isn't in the right position.
K4m manifold is attached by spring bolts to the cat. But if someone's put a flexi pipe in they may have changed this. But the 172 mani should fit the k4m. 182 mani is a bit more annoying, bigger and (I'm told) provides less power
It's easier and cheaper to fit a new bonnet. Safer too. Not sure if bonnet catches on metal bonnet would pass an MOT. You have to understand these catches are designed for very light bonnets (ie carbon, fibreglass)
So my 1.6 failed it's MOT on emissions today. They said it was blowing, the engine was misfiring and the lambda (rear) sensor needs replacing. It has a power flow exhaust.
I can deal with the hole easily but I want to know if any parts can be transferred from a 1.2 8v d7f engine. My first...
Unless you have a fibre glass bonnet, there's really no point. Bonnet catches are only designed to keep the fibreglass bonnet from bending from the wind force. Fitting these to a metal bonnet is like bolting a padlock to the doors next to the key lock. Looks pointless.
If you have a spray booth, engine crane, restoration trolley and 40 square foot dry storage space. Then go for it. Otherwise it's going to be a ball ache that won't be worth it in the end.
If I were you I'd do as much prep before you strip it down. (Example, sand down and build primer on...