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anyone? :(

dunno mate, haynes manual will tell me the firing order, but it doesnt tell me whats what on the coilpack itself :(

hi guys, quick question! on the d7f (1.2 8v), what order do the leads go onto the coilpack? Just did my tappets and lost track of what lead should be where - made a guess and it fires up ok, no emmisions light, and no misfiring... but just wanted to be sure!

if theres no rear seats, theres no need for rear belts! contact VOSA, get them to clarify, then set them loose on the MOT tester! They take a serious disliking to this kind of thing.

not worth replacing the bar? i'd have thought it'd make a huge difference, standard bar isnt stiff enough imho. Probably going to give it a go - did my mates bar (uprated eibach front, and an additional rear) on his mk4 golf 1.8t a few weeks ago, and its made such a difference!

think my bushes have finally worn after 86k (40k lowered), so im looking to replace them, but considering replacing the ARB with a thicker one (ie one off a 172), so was wondering if anyone could get me a price from dialogys if possible, since i dont have access to my own computer at the moment...

problem sorted, dead pump as i'd thought, £12 later and a shitload of confusion (since my pump was different to the only one that any local motor factor listed) and its fixed.

they're different thicker ARB, wishbones allow for a different track, car sits slightly lower due to different springs, shocks are different. Same goes for any clio, they're all different! :lol:

how much do these cost new, for a mk2? mine has decided to pack in, with my MOT due in a week, and i'm mega skint! :lol: also, easy enough to change with the scuttle panel off?

thought cupra's had aluminium style mirrors as an option, and not chrome? Personally i'd stay away from chrome, could look tacky - although it does look ok on the audi's. Aluminium could look good though.

had the same problem, company who colour coded my car hadnt degreased area's of my bumpers properly - mainly the edges, the bits that are more difficult and time consuming to degrease. I've still not had it fixed, we're now a year on from when it started happening, and its finally stopped losing...

matt no longer does the fitting. but yeah, £1500 for everything you need - and really if you have some technical ability, you could fit it yourself! you dont need the rear brakes btw.

same as standard. i ran 30 at the front, 28 at the back aswell - much higher and the tyre 'balloons'.

yip, the entire system is different.

shocks will probably still fail prematurely, just not as prematurely on 40mm afaik a 98 kit will fit. I have a spax kit on mine.

bet it goes back up next time you're out in the car...

eh?! better, but not up-rated? definition of uprated anybody? lol probably best just leaving the standard shocks if you're staying on standard springs.

the overall difference is the same doesnt it mean the steering wheel will sit VERY slightly off to one side, when truely driving straight? which may just account for road camber?

ok but when you do find out, remember that you'll need two per shock... thats all i was saying.

not sure BUT... rear shocks from spax, DO require two nuts. best thing to do is phone spax, and hope their technical team arent away setting up a stand at a show somewhere... lol

when its cold, thats what happens. You dont say what car though. There was a similar post the other week about how when its cold, it runs lean for emissions purposes, so feels restrictive. To be honest you shouldnt be using 'all the power' when cold anyway. As for the 'climate' system, im...

harsh clattery ride, severe lack of traction over bumpy ground, clunking noises you'll also be able to bounce test it, ie push down on each corner, and let it bounce back up, if it bounces an awful lot, it'll have failed. If its too stiff in one corner, it'll also have failed (had that before)

its not a bolt as such its more of a thumb screw, and plastic, to be turned by your hand rather than a socket.

they're plastic, they dont rust... it may be that the 'chrome' (not real chrome, just fake chrome paint) has been damaged by salt/weather/other... it almost certainly wont be covered under warranty - or a paint warranty for that matter. Just buy new ones from ebay or even renault...

AJR, where abouts in scotland are you from? just with the mention of torque performance... (a mate of a mates company)

afaik, no 172's were ever produced in black gold, just pearl black. 182's were however.

ps. easy to fit yourself, takes literally less than two hours. Clio's have suspension thats seriously easy to work on imho.

its only the 52mm bolt spacing on the hubs that will mean these wont fit. I THINK the 2002 model has a larger bolt spacing, so it should fit - this is normally the case if you have vented discs (and/or ABS). Best thing to do is go take a front wheel off, you'll see the two bolts holding...

joshydee, the 1.4 a 16v? the 1.4 has more torque, but the 1.2 is probably geared differently to make it nippy. If thats the case, the 1.4 should kill it once it gets going. D4ve, not sure, but the heads should be slightly different if thats the case, pistons, probably crankshaft aswell, and...

yeah, or dodgy wiring or connections, which is probably most likely on the clio!