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A cheap Evo?



R3k1355

ClioSport Club Member
Had this a little while, but have only now got it on the road. I wasn't in a rush and didn't have very much money to spend so took my time.
I bought this car completely blind, only a vague description from the seller, it had just ran out of MOT and was described as 'needing work'.

This is what I paid good money for (the white one, not the red POS)

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First impressions are; it's had paint, not all of it good. It doesn't seem to have been modified very much but the shell seems solid.
Seller had told me that it didn't run well, had some lights on the dash and the tyres were bald (y)

So (in no particular order) I set about sorting it out.

Some moron had sprayed all the grills white, it looked f**king s**t. They are fairly easy to remove once the bumper is off. Put back to Matt Black.

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The headlight was also not in great shape. I bought some DEPO headlights very cheap, I immediately hated them when they arrived, but the shell was perfect to sort my problem out.

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I took the bonnet grill and louvres off, polished and painted.

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The difference was pretty stark.

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Next up was addressing the actual problems. Seller said it ran like s**t, so chances are it's fuel or ignition. So I went about doing the fuel first.

Doing the fuel pump isn't fun, most cars have a little hatch on the top of the tank in line with the rear seats with the pump and cradle attached, to make changing everything very quick. The Evo does have this, but for some reason long fuel lines run off the top so you can't actually remove it through the hole in the rear bench. The tank has gotta come off.

Exhaust off, Propshaft off, fuel lines off, filler neck off.
The bonus is once the tank is off you get to see the real underside of the car, imports rust like f**k around the fuel tank as underseal can't reach those areas.
 
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R3k1355

ClioSport Club Member
Mine is solid as a rock, get in!!!

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Went with a Walbro 255, the tank was in good condition, just knocked off the surface rust and it was good to go.

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To go with this the injectors were sent off for rebuild and flow testing, the two coolant temp sensors and cam sensor were also replaced.

Removing the exhaust showed it was fucked. Previous owner had chopped it about and made a right old mess. Even the gaskets were a pig to remove.

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I was browsing eBay and someone was selling a full system for less than £200 delivered, decent Japanese brand too. Quick clean and it was properly mint.

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I was looking at the battery cable and something didn't sit right with me, so I grabbed a knife and cut it all open

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Bought the necessary cable and made new

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R3k1355

ClioSport Club Member
Next up was sorting the AYC. The system had a bust solenoid, you can get these rebuilt for a fair few quid or take a chance on a breaker.
Naturally I bought a full AYC pump and solenoid set off a bloke who said "oh yea mate, they work perfectly,"

They were fucked, but since I got the lot less than you'd give for one solenoid I couldn't complain. I assembled a working set from the bits I had easy enough.

Fitting them back was another story. I'd chopped the original AYC lines, they were rusted and not coming out. This didn't seem like a problem because I already had a set of HEL lines waiting to go on.

The HEL lines don't fit worth a damn, it's a joke. They are so close together on the pump body you've actually got to grind thm down to get them in.
Then they leaked :poop:

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Luckily a helpful chap on MLR gave me a walkthrough on converting it over to AN. After a veriety of swear words I have some lovely lines, that fit perfectly and don't leak a drop of hydraulic fluid.

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After fixing everything you need to bleed the AYC system fully, I chose to buy a bleed box which lets you just run the pump to bleed air out.

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Most owners w**k themselves stupid over using Mitsi's Diaqueen oil, but I went to ECP and just used Dex III like everyone else on the planet.

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I also changed the diff oil and the AYC diff oil, both of which were well overdue.

While I was there the AYC pump bushes were shot to f**k. Luckily these are the exact same bushes as the gearshift mechanism, which I had sat around.

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So onto addressing other issues, there were a few bits on the suspension that needed attention.

Both track-rod ends were replaced

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The balljoints used on this car have replaceable boots, since several looked abit crusty (and replacements were a quid or two) I took some arms off and replaced a bunch, for the money it was worth a go.

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While I was there it was obvious the plastic arch guards were fucked, so I got some new ones. Possibly the last new ones around?

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R3k1355

ClioSport Club Member
I moved onto ignition and general service stuff

The plugs were mis-matched and none were properly gapped, Evo's run quite a tight gap so you've gotta check.

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Coilpacks and leads are also an issue, I got some cheapies to get things going, they were an improvement over what was there so clearly the originals were shot.

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For some reason the previous owner got rid of the original BOV, but in the most ridiculous way possible?

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All you need is one cap

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The fuel filter is pretty well bolted in place

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Also there was a bunch of odd wiring to do

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R3k1355

ClioSport Club Member
It was about time for the MOT, so naturally the car took a massive s**t.

The alternator blew, so I took it and the starter off for a rebuild. Lots of stuff comes off for this job.

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In the process I also did a gearbox oil seal, exhaust downpipe, gearbox oil, transfer box oil, gearbox breathers, aux belt and both aux belt idler pulleys.
Also one of the bolts was funky as s**t

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Both idler pulleys were very bad









The dipstick had to come out, so that got cleaned up and some new O-rings

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Tyres were always a problem, but so were the wheels. It was on E7 wheels which are 17x8, but they catch the arch and really 17x7.5 is the max you want.
Which as it happens is the same size as E6 rims.

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Again it was pretty much MOT ready, again it had other ideas.
 

R3k1355

ClioSport Club Member
The crank pulley s**t the bed, while it was running :eek::eek::eek:

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I also had to attend to the drivers wing mirror. It worked, but it was clearly the wrong sized glass just stuck in place.
After a few minutes online I found the correct glass, for £4.99 delivered

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I decided to strip and clean the brakes as the car had sat for some time, things were mostly fine, but the slider pins should have little grommets on the end, these were either missing or mullered. Luckily cheap and available from the main dealer.

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It's quite common to find original heatshields removed, they do a good job and aren't expensive to replace.

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I decided I needed better shifter bushes, so stiffer rubber for the mechanism and bronze for the shifter cable.

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  Renault Clio 172
Worth hanging onto this mate, i had an immaculate one a couple of years ago and prices have shot up since i sold mine. Is it still on the original engine?
You can get toyota yaris cop kits fairly cheap for these, combined with a 1 grade cooler plug, go for ngk copper core bpr8es i think the code is and they run nicely on a 1mm gap. Also, I'd look at getting an evo 9 diverter valve instead of leaving the bov port blanked, will run much better and there a better design than the earlier ones. Get it boost leak tested aswell as it will have loads im sure, the throttle body is usually the main culprit
 

R3k1355

ClioSport Club Member
I'd look at getting an evo 9 diverter valve instead of leaving the bov port blanked, will run much better and there a better design than the earlier ones. Get it boost leak tested aswell as it will have loads im sure, the throttle body is usually the main culprit

Has already had another throttle body on, one it came with was missing the throttle stop?? It runs extremely well to be honest, starts immediately on the button - which for an old turbo car is impressive.
I considered the E9 re-circulating valve, but if I did that I'd lose all the good old Turbo noises, and I really love the noises.

I'm a total child
 

R3k1355

ClioSport Club Member
Despite passing the MOT with only minor stuff there's still plenty to do. Driving along it makes a bunch of noises, most of them bad.

First I'm going to replace the OSF drop-link (which is a pig) and in the process I'll check out the wheel bearing(s). I have a feeling the MOT man checked for play, but didn't get much of a feel for how freely they rotate. Replacements are available and not silly money, so might well do both if one feels rough.
 

R3k1355

ClioSport Club Member
Emley moor looking great?

Is the s13 ca18 or have you SR20d?

CA all the way. Especially now when people are asking an arm and a leg for a fucked SR20. Shoulda bought back in the day when a decent runner was under a grand
S13 needs a bunch of work tho, got the rot bad :(
 

donnylad

ClioSport Club Member
Yeah I’ve been looking at K10 micras (first car) and wanting to sr20 one, but the price of the engines has gone mad. When I had my 14a I had one spare engine I got gifted to me, and one in bits to learn about them/ strip!
 

Adeyspec

ClioSport Club Member
  57 Renault Dauphine
Awesome thread, id love an evo 4, looks the best in my opinion. Used to have some jap cars, never got into an evo though, s13 two x s14's and a 14a, plus an ATR and a wrx blob wagon.

keep up the good work (y)
 

thecrim22

ClioSport Club Member
  various
Awesome thread, id love an evo 4, looks the best in my opinion. Used to have some jap cars, never got into an evo though, s13 two x s14's and a 14a, plus an ATR and a wrx blob wagon.

keep up the good work (y)
Evos are so much better than scoobys when pushing on, a lot more balanced, had an s14a hated it all it wanted to do was go f**king sideways ive just worked a 15hr day and want to drive home peacefully... Nope lets try and go sideways as much as possible!!!
 

Silent_Scone

ClioSport Club Member
  Evo 5 RS
Nice project this! I actually don't mind the white vents lmao.

Is it a 4 engine? The majority of them have been chopped at some point
 

R3k1355

ClioSport Club Member
Is it a 4 engine? The majority of them have been chopped at some point

It is, most were replaced with later engines that have improved thrust bearing design and a few other differences.
Have a micrometer to measure end-float, if still in spec then a new thrust bearings is a good idea.

Not many left running the original engine these days.
 

R3k1355

ClioSport Club Member
Brakes had been dragging abit, I had hoped after stripping and cleaning that putting a few miles on would clean any crap off them off and solve my problem.
It was not to be, they were past just a simple clean up.

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I decided to rebuild the front calipers, a rebuild kit was very cheap and I figured if I can manage these I can do the full set of Brembos I've got sat in a box.
Rebuild kit was £15, I didn't have much to lose.

Removed all pistons, they were pretty grubby. Two had a small amount of pitting, so replaced with new, also got a couple of new bleed nipples.

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After cleaning everything up and after throwing some paint on they looked pretty decent.

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Bought a one man bleed kit to help with the re-install, it wasn't so simple to use though as it draws alot of air though the threads of the bleed nipple. You can gravity bleed these cars, which proved to be easier.
I thought I could get away with just bleeding the fronts, but that was quickly proved wrong. I bled all 4 through and the pedal feels correct.

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I still have a clunk from the front, quite possibly the ARB bushes, which are a total pig. I'll warm up the parts-cannon and replace a load of other stuff first as it's easier and I'm lazy, engine mounts and the bushes for the longitudinal engine support (North-South bar) first.


Quick drive down the road and there's no sign the brakes are dragging anymore, so I'm happy with that.

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In other news, awesome retro floor mats!
 


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