Following on from my last post, the new GEK-18T bearings from McGill arrived so i made a start on fitting them. I had also ordered some new Lemforder track rod ends and ball joints from euros as they had a offer on. Lemforder are a good alternative to genuine ones. The TRE's arrived after 2.5 weeks but the ball joints hadn't at this point. I jacked the car up, removed the wheels and suspension, ready for the swap over.
GEK-18T (35mm OD) vs GEK-18U (42m OD)
I had previously only removed one side of the cars suspension when i had the bearing issue. This time i removed both, and then thats where i realised i had the same issue, but now know why.
The bigger OD bearing IS correct. I thought i needed a smaller one due to the sleeve on the top mount inner, that wasn't the case. It turned out that my bearing had pushed out the inner part and left the outer sleeve in the top mount. You can see here.
The left hand side's outer bearing was seized in. Bit of a bad bearing design really. But at least i knew now what my issue was. So in hindsight, the GEK-18U is the correct bearing. This is a better design as its one piece, so less chance of it separating like i experienced. Unfortunately, i had no way of removing the seized sleeve at home, so i made the decision to suck it up and order brand new PMS top mounts. I emailed McGill and asked if i could return the new/unused smaller bearings to them, which they agreed. I said i would do it after the lockdown as i don't deem this essential and they was fine with that. So i temporarily fitted back up the suspension just so the car was moveable.
With that done, i changed my track rod ends. Drivers side came off easy, passenger sided needed to be cut as it was spinning.
New ones fitted
The part numbers if anybody needs them.
With that all done, i refitted the wheels, lowered the car and put it back in the garage.
Next job a few days later was to clean my seatbelts. They wasn't bad, but needed a freshen up and being on lockdown, i have the time to do these little jobs. I removed the lower torx bolts to release the belts, pulled them out so they was fully extended and clamped them. I filled up my car cleaning buckets with hot water and a decent scoop of vanish and let them soak for 6 hours. This is whats recommend on the tub for clothes, so i just followed that guide for seatbelts! They came up good, but i wanted to redo the drivers one, which was still slightly grubby, but settled to do that another day.
While they was soaking, i phoned up Pure Motorsport and ordered the top mounts. They have a revised version which is made out of aluminum and is a better and lighter design. They do 2 versions: A M14 and a M12 so i asked which i need for Bilsteins which Nick clarified that i need M14. The mounts arrived the next day, as well as my lower ball joints, so the next job was to get them all fitted up.
While they was being fitted, i redid my drivers seat belt with vanish again and let it soak for 6 hours again.
Comparison of old steel PMS mounts vs new ally PMS mounts.
Fitted the new mounts and coated them in ACF-50
I fitted the spreader rings with the PURE logo being seen. Normally i like it quite plain but i wanted to see how these looked. Not too bad actually. Luckily, the underside is plain so i can always just flip them.
Next job was changing the ball joints. This job went quite easy with no issues.
Everything was tightened up again, so i fitted the wheels, lowered it and took it for a quick test drive round the block. We have a common near us, so i went that way so i could grab a few pictures!
Was all good so i went back home and parked it up. Quick engine bay shot.
I was just about to shut the door and noticed i had some made camber going on the passenger side!
I know what had happened. While doing up the hub bolts, the hub must have fell back as the Bilsteins are slotted. I couldn't be bothered to sort that then, so i left that to the following day.
Camber corrected
C
Now the new top mounts are fitted, i will wait till i go back to work and weld the old bearing to the seized part and then press it out on the press. I've kept the correct larger bearings, so i will fit those as originally planned and then forward them on. These are actually going onto
@MrBlonde titanium 182. And as mentioned, i'll send the smaller bearing back for a refund, so its not all a bad loss.
So getting up to date, yesterday i ordered some genuine inner tie rods. Seen as i've changed 3 parts of the suspension, i may as well do the other bits and get it aligned. That way its all new then. These should be here next week. I was also browsing RPD and was going to order a oil change service kit, but then i spoke to Alex @ AW Motorworks and he gave me a price that was decent for him to do it while the belts are being done. So after the lockdown and i go back to work, i have pre booked with him to have the following done:
Cambelt kit
Aux belt
Dephaser pulley
Water pump + Coolant
Oil filter + oil change
(All of the above with genuine parts)
Full brake bleed includIng the ABS pump. I'm not 100% sure but i think the fluid that used is ATE 200.
I have also enquired about a supply and fit of steering rack bushes (either genuine ones or powerflex, whatever is recommended) but have yet to get a reply. I know they was fitted not long before i got the RB, but that was 4 years and 40k ago so makes sense to change them and then its had all new steering and suspension parts.
And lastly, the best update ever, is that myself and my wife Emily are expecting our first child, expected due date of 14th November.
We are both over the moon with this! It has been planned and we had the 12 week scan a few days ago and the baby is all well and healthy! So, based on that, the rear seats are going to have to stay for the time being! At least the RB has isofix!!
Will update more on the RB once the inner rods arrive, but for now, lets finish the post on a picture showing the RB still looking good, with a happy pregnant wife smiling inside. (This was taken coming back from the hospital)
Thanks for reading,
Mark.
