ClioSport.net

Register a free account today to become a member!
Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members through your own private inbox!

  • When you purchase through links on our site, we may earn an affiliate commission. Read more here.

mobl1 and motoquip oil



  Monaco 172
what do you have in now? I'm pretty limited to what can buy here it seems as Opie is a bit expensive for postage.

any1 used duckhams
 
  ClioSport 172 Cup
I heard that if you have used Mobil 1 you cannot change to another oil unless you completely flush the engine dry. Something to do with the additives in Mobil 1 that can react with other oils.

Sam
 
  ITB'd MK1
Never liked Mobil 1. I'd be quite happy to run Valvoline, Comma motorsport (sold as halfords also) or anything with a decent rating on the label.

Why not buy ELF oil from renault?
 
  ClioSport 172 Cup
You get what you pay for at the end of the day! Mobil 1 is the best oil you can buy. Mobil oil is used in formula 1 engines. If you want maximum protection Mobil 1 is the stuff.
 
  ITB'd MK1
You get what you pay for at the end of the day! Mobil 1 is the best oil you can buy. Mobil oil is used in formula 1 engines. If you want maximum protection Mobil 1 is the stuff.

seen results of independent testing that say otherwise. Mobil comes out decidedly average.
 
  "Navy" N17 TWO
They say Renault use the Elf stuff in their F1 cars and in the RenaultSport range too - it's on the bottles
 
lol yes I'm sure theyd use some £30-40 pound rubbish in a formula one car! Come on get real maybe some people believe the marketing bull
 
  R5 GTT
I have used mobil 1 15w / 50 in my R5 GTT for the last 3 years with no probs if I change oil grade and use 0w / 50 she is a little tappy.
 
  Ph1
It would have to be pretty s**t oil to cause engine damage, basically water so tbh different brands being claimed to be better than others imo is a load of crap unless your a touring car doing 10 thousand rpm every 2 mins

The important bit is the correct grading not the brand name
 
  200bhp 172 cup
I thought this enlightening and thought provoking article would be of interest. :approve:

A word of caution – You get what you pay for!

Below is an article written by John Rowland, Silkolene/Fuchs Chief R & D Chemist for 40 years.

Quote:

Costs of "synthetics" vary considerably. The most expensive are the “Ester” types originally only used in jet engines. These cost 6 to 10 times more than high quality mineral oils.

The cheapest "synthetics" are not really "synthetic" at all, from a chemists point of view. These are in fact specially refined light viscosity mineral oils known as “hydrocracked”. These have some advantages over equivalent mineral oils, particularly in lower viscosity such as 5w-30 or other oils with a low “W” rating such as 5w-50 etc and they cost about 1.5 times more than good quality mineral fractions.

We use several different grades of this base oil, where appropriate. This is the “synthetic” which is always used in cheap oils that are labelled “synthetic”. Yes it’s a cruel world, you get what you pay for!

Now, you may ask, why are these special mineral oils called “synthetic”?

Well, it was all sorted in a legal battle that took place in the USA about ten years ago. Sound reasons (including evidence from a Nobel Prize winning chemist) were disregarded and the final ruling was that certain mineral bases that had undergone extra chemical treatments could be called “synthetic”.

Needless to say, the marketing executives wet their knickers with pure delight! They realised that this meant, and still does, that the critical buzz-word “synthetic” could be printed on a can of cheap oil provided that the contents included a few percent of “hydrocracked” mineral oil, at a cost of quite literally a few pence.

So, the chemistry of “synthetics” is complex and so is the politics!

The economics are very simple. If you like the look of a smart well-marketed can with “synthetic” printed on it, fair enough, it will not cost you a lot; and now you know why this is the case.

But, if you drive a high performance car, and you intend to keep it for several years, and maybe do the odd “track day”, then you need a genuine Ester/PAO (Poly Alpha Olefin) .
This oil costs more money to buy, because it costs us a lot of money to make, very simply, you always get what you pay for! :)
 


Top