The DIY Thread

[.Adam.]

Seen as a large number of us seem to be doing various decorating, renovating etc. jobs in and around our homes, I thought a dedicated DIY thread might be handy rather than starting a new thread for each individual task. A place to share ideas, ask questions etc.

I'll kick things off.

How long do I need to let paint dry on a wall before I can put masking take over it without the fear of the tape pulling up the fresh paint when removed?

 

[Coby.]

THREAD BUMP!


In time we’ll get this properly fixed or swapped out for a wood burner but what would anyone recommend filling this gap by our fireplace with?



We’re not going to use it obviously until properly fixed but just to get it looking nice so we can decorate the room.

 

[andy_con]

i fuckig hate DIY!!!

 

[Louis]

Pump it full of expanding come then run a bead of silicone. Job jobbed

 

[Louis]

Or some finishing wooden edging trim

 

[Lukas1]

Masking tape, caulk, wet finger, done.

If you use silicone, make sure it's paintable.

 

[Ol’ Tarby!]

expanding come

Do screwfix stock that?

 

[andy_con]

Do screwfix stock that?

just make it ya self

 

[Louis]

He did say DIY

 

[coolspot007007]

Masking tape, caulk, wet finger, done.

This, if the gap is deep in places, but it's not a massive void underneath (so like 20-30mm deep) it might be worth getting some backer rod. It's basically a foam rod used to minimise the gap you need to fill with caulk, silicone etc. It comes in a variety of sizes.

 

[jonno_c]

Does anyone know the best option for my garage doors.

Basically the car is 9mm too long to fit in the garage, so I was thinking of doing something to the door to basically move it out by another 100/150mm or so.

Thoughts?

 

[Louis]

Park it diagonally

 

[16v_er]

As this is a diy thread. I'm looking at getting an impact wrench for suspension, brake work etc. After changing a spring on the wife's car recently and being an old git. It damn near killed me. I was looking at the milkwakee impact wrench. Should I go for 1/2 or a 3/8? Also which model? Cheers.

 

[andy_con]

As this is a diy thread. I'm looking at getting an impact wrench for suspension, brake work etc. After changing a spring on the wife's car recently and being an old git. It damn near killed me. I was looking at the milkwakee impact wrench. Should I go for 1/2 or a 3/8? Also which model? Cheers.

Wrong thread

 

[16v_er]

Wrong thread

its a diy thread? But never mind I've just seen the impact wrench thread.

 

[andy_con]

its a diy thread? But never mind I've just seen the impact wrench thread.

Have a read of the first post

 

[16v_er]

Have a read of the first post

yea I work on the car in my home....my garage

 

[andy_con]

yea I work on the car in my home....my garage :wink:

Lol

 

[Adam D]

Any painting tips?

Painting fresh plastered walls and after two watered down coats if all looks well, on the final coat is where i get my problems.

You can see where i’ve gone in sections and the parts where i’ve joined (say i do a strip 2 foot wide then go to the next strip) is textured badly and very visible now it’s dry. Only option i have now seems to be sanding it down.

I don’t know if it’s that the paint is getting dry so i don’t have a wet edge but it’s unavoidable on a ceiling with the size of the room, height and me being a short arse up a ladder (i can’t use a roller pole it doesn’t seem to go well with my height and the ceiling height!)

 

[Coby.]

What paint, What roller?

I’ve been using paint pads as didn’t get along with my Harris rollers, Far from perfect but so much easier to use imo.


My own question - Is bathroom paint really needed for bathroom ceilings and walls? Used Dulux stuff and it’s so sticky the finish is poor and bugging me.

 

[Adam D]

What paint, What roller?

I’ve been using paint pads as didn’t get along with my Harris rollers, Far from perfect but so much easier to use imo.


My own question - Is bathroom paint really needed for bathroom ceilings and walls? Used Dulux stuff and it’s so sticky the finish is poor and bugging me.

Dulux medium pile roller and Wickes own matt paint. Not sure if it’s the paint as when having a quick Google shows other forum posts of similar descriptions and they mention Wickes paint they’ve used.

I’m too much of a perfectionist and it has to be spot on smooth and i love the finish of a rollered wall. Generally lost all motivation for finishing the whole house off. It’s all fresh plastered and i’m only on the second room, the first room did a similar but worse effect on the final non watered down coat so i blamed the paint (Wickes but i’d picked up a slightly more expensive tub for the final coat).

 

[jonno_c]

Park it diagonally

Is that an arse getting in /out?

May give it a whirl!

 

[Panda.]

Love a bit of winter DIY project! Slowly doing my house up over the last year or so and trying to do it as cheaply (but still a decent job, if a little unconventional!) as possible. So IKEA discount area raided for work tops, pallets and all sorts... especially frustrating having no square walls in the house....!

And made this for the other side of the fireplace...

 

[Louis]

Love a bit of winter DIY project! Slowly doing my house up over the last year or so and trying to do it as cheaply (but still a decent job, if a little unconventional!) as possible. So IKEA discount area raided for work tops, pallets and all sorts... especially frustrating having no square walls in the house....!View attachment 1353287View attachment 1353288View attachment 1353289 View attachment 1353290

And made this for the other side of the fireplace...View attachment 1353291

This looks great! But the gaps to the sides of the doors would proper bug me

 

[Louis]

Is that an arse getting in /out?

May give it a whirl!

9mm seems like such a small amount. Is that with the car actually touching the wall? Maybe put a nice bit of bubble wrap at car height on the wall so you can get as close as possible. Then even if you tap the bubble wrap it won't do any damage

 

[jonno_c]

Love a bit of winter DIY project! Slowly doing my house up over the last year or so and trying to do it as cheaply (but still a decent job, if a little unconventional!) as possible. So IKEA discount area raided for work tops, pallets and all sorts... especially frustrating having no square walls in the house....!View attachment 1353287View attachment 1353288View attachment 1353289 View attachment 1353290

And made this for the other side of the fireplace...View attachment 1353291

Big up the Roses tin full of screws! Classic!
; )

 

[jonno_c]

9mm seems like such a small amount. Is that with the car actually touching the wall? Maybe put a nice bit of bubble wrap at car height on the wall so you can get as close as possible. Then even if you tap the bubble wrap it won't do any damage

Tbf I've not even attempted it yet. Car is quoted at being 4589mm in length and I've measured the garage and it's just shy of that.
I'll have a play during the week if I get chance!

 

[Chuckles]

Dulux medium pile roller and Wickes own matt paint. Not sure if it’s the paint as when having a quick Google shows other forum posts of similar descriptions and they mention Wickes paint they’ve used.

I’m too much of a perfectionist and it has to be spot on smooth and i love the finish of a rollered wall. Generally lost all motivation for finishing the whole house off. It’s all fresh plastered and i’m only on the second room, the first room did a similar but worse effect on the final non watered down coat so i blamed the paint (Wickes but i’d picked up a slightly more expensive tub for the final coat).

Problem is s**t paint.

I won’t even touch any own brand stuff. It’s just not worth it

 

[FatRS]

How should I go about sorting this?

It's where moisture has gathered at the edge of windows and mould has developed.

 

[Lukas1]

How should I go about sorting this?

View attachment 1353304 View attachment 1353302

It's where moisture has gathered at the edge of windows and mould has developed.

Firstly I'd go outside and check the state of the external trims and mastic to see if there are any huge gaps where it has perished over time and re do it.

Then on the inside, cut out the wet plaster with a multitool and fill it all back in, sand, caulk, paint. May be worth removing the whole internal plaster board and put in a brand new one if it's really bad. Also if you choose to do this, fill the inside of the window frame opening with expanding foam if there isn't any there as double barrier against air/water.

The silicone on the inside of the frame that's gone moldy needs redoing with bacteria resistant silicone. Dow Corning 785 is pretty good.

 

[16v_er]

Scrape out all the old caulk. Bleach the area for the mould. Masking tape and re-caulk it. Then stop the cause of the mould or reduce it. Gippo way of doing it is to soak single pieces of lol roll in bleach, roll it up like a spliff and press it against the mouldy caulk. Wait a few hours and it might shift it.

 

[iimushroomzii]

Dulux medium pile roller and Wickes own matt paint. Not sure if it’s the paint as when having a quick Google shows other forum posts of similar descriptions and they mention Wickes paint they’ve used.

I’m too much of a perfectionist and it has to be spot on smooth and i love the finish of a rollered wall. Generally lost all motivation for finishing the whole house off. It’s all fresh plastered and i’m only on the second room, the first room did a similar but worse effect on the final non watered down coat so i blamed the paint (Wickes but i’d picked up a slightly more expensive tub for the final coat).

Wickes paint is probably the problem. How much have you been watering it down? You don't need to water it down too much, and stir the water in really well. I would only water the first coat down too. I always use Leyland Matt and it always looks decent.

 

[coolspot007007]

How should I go about sorting this?

Same as what everyone else said, but use HG Mould spray instead of bleach, you can get it in B&Q. If you spray a decent amount of it beware the room will smell like chlorine for 1-2 days, and vent the room very well, it's potent stuff.

 

[Adam D]

Wickes paint is probably the problem. How much have you been watering it down? You don't need to water it down too much, and stir the water in really well. I would only water the first coat down too. I always use Leyland Matt and it always looks decent.

I’m starting to think it’s the paint although on a couple of walls i’ve had no problem, i don’t know if it’s the fact that it’s drying too quick as it always seems to be on my joining lines.

I only water around 25:75 then 20:80 for the second as it’s still normally patchy and looks almost spot on after the second. I think i’ve done with Wickes paint from now on. I’ve heard good things about the bare plaster paint you can get from Screwfix. Saves watering paint down and has good reviews.

 

[iimushroomzii]

I’m starting to think it’s the paint although on a couple of walls i’ve had no problem, i don’t know if it’s the fact that it’s drying too quick as it always seems to be on my joining lines.

I only water around 25:75 then 20:80 for the second as it’s still normally patchy and looks almost spot on after the second. I think i’ve done with Wickes paint from now on. I’ve heard good things about the bare plaster paint you can get from Screwfix. Saves watering paint down and has good reviews.

You shouldn't really be getting lines in it. As you put the next line on, roll back over the bit you've done to smooth any lines out. If it's dry before you can even do that then its almost definitely the paint.
I've not tried the screwfix stuff so I can't comment.

 

[MarcJP]

Same as what everyone else said, but use HG Mould spray instead of bleach, you can get it in B&Q. If you spray a decent amount of it beware the room will smell like chlorine for 1-2 days, and vent the room very well, it's potent stuff.

I second this, it’s the best mould remover I’ve ever used - we suffer from condensation really badly in our current house, and it’s kept it mould-free for a couple of years now.

 

[Panda.]

Big up the Roses tin full of screws! Classic!
; )

It was my grandads!! A h’actual family heirloom!

 

[J-J]

I’m starting to think it’s the paint although on a couple of walls i’ve had no problem, i don’t know if it’s the fact that it’s drying too quick as it always seems to be on my joining lines.

I only water around 25:75 then 20:80 for the second as it’s still normally patchy and looks almost spot on after the second. I think i’ve done with Wickes paint from now on. I’ve heard good things about the bare plaster paint you can get from Screwfix. Saves watering paint down and has good reviews.

I've used the no nonsense bare plaster paint on all my walls and ceilings. Cover is brilliant, only took 2 coats on bare plaster to give a decent final finish.

I've got a few half tubs left in the shed, if you want to try some you're welcome to them if you're about Leeds anytime soon.

 

[ChrisR]

Got tiled flooring in the kitchen and the grout between a couple of them has broken, probably about an inch long in one place and 2 inches in another.

So nothing big, just annoying to look at as it looks obvious against white grouting and tiles.

What’s the best way to pitch this up for a DIY idiot like myself?

Do I have to go and get some grout and mix it up etc or as it’s only tiny bits is there anything I can just ‘squirt’ in the gaps and smooth off?

Read about using sanded caulk to squirt in the gaps, that any use?

 

[Bubbles]

My own question - Is bathroom paint really needed for bathroom ceilings and walls? Used Dulux stuff and it’s so sticky the finish is poor and bugging me.

Yes.. I will ALWAYS use bathroom paint in bathrooms now, its designed to cope the moisture and wont peel off after a few months/year