Recent content by davebem

Get it up on ramps, or park on edge of curb, (not jacked up) while someone is rocking steering wheel left and right, get under with torch and check for play in inner, outer track rod ends, worn ball joints. If the whole steering rack is moving excessively side to side the rack mounts will need...

To confuse things I ordered a non-air con rad for my 172mk1, it fitted the standard mounts fine. The only slight issue I had was that the original fan housing didnt quite sit flush against the rad, there was a 1 cm gap.

It is possible the belt kits are all the same now, Renault have discontinued the 172mk1 kit. From memory its the idler at the lower rear that had a different internal diameter, this affected idler now includes the replacement fixing bolt and spacer (in decent aftermarket or newer Renault kits)...

Which version of the 172 is it? ph1, ph2 or cup?

The powerflex yellow dogbone mount is not too bad for the ph1, I hardly get any vibration with mine. The purple and black versions cause a lot more vibration in my experience. You may benefit more with powerflex steering rack mounts, and inspect track rod ends and ball joints for play, new...

First twist is sidelights (W5W) Second twist is dipped beam (HB3) Full beam which is pulling the stalk towards and letting go (H7) They are easy to change compared to most modern cars.

It looks like a genuine one, but it has a damper fitted so it must be from a 172ph2, the 172ph1 shafts are completely solid..You cant guarantee thats going to fit as there are 4 or 5 different shafts for that side across the 172/182. They are about £140 from Renault, I think a little cheaper if...

Ive still got mine!! 1. Djw John 2. yeecup 3. dmallett 4. frenchthing 5. Johnathan 6. Roland Rat 7. T_2_the_C 8. hazzamondo 9. 2Damnsly 10. 105e 11. Iscariot 12. davebem

I can confirm that the pic is the ph1 shafts, how they come from Renault.

The dipped is HB3 and the main is H7.:)

Try removing the horn and cleaning the contact between the horn and bracket as this is usually what it earths against.

The above pic has inspired me to get mine back on the road asap. Just need to finish the cooling system overhaul.

As above, the bit sticking out is the spring from the new pad. It helps keep it in position and reduces squealing, youll need to take it apart again and re-assemble ensuring the springs are inside the caliper.

The cables do stretch with age, I suppose it depends on the results of the rear brake force tests.

You will need to remove the heat shield in the middle to get to it, its normally held on with 4 torx bolts, then you will need a deep socket to adjust the handbrake. Also on some models there is a nut on the handbrake lever, its worth taking the back plastic trim off the handbrake to check.