A random starting issue that's getting worse

[Bolloksitsmeee]

Hi all, soo recently my car is becoming a bit of a dick to start. Go to start the car, so turn to position 1 with the key, get fuel pump relay or whatever, noise as per. Go to start, and nothing, no cranking no immobiliser light, sweet f/a. just a ticking from behind the steering wheel?

So after looking on here and other sites, i have took some steps to try to alleviate the issue:
New Battery
Clean throttle body
Clean TDC Sensor
And still no joy, but!!!

I have now noticed some things have to be in order for it to occur, when its cold, literally no issues at all fires right up. It is only if i have been driving it (at optimal temps, its never overheated) and give it full/near full throttle, once that journey has ended, it will not start at all no cranking blah blah blah. But if i leave it for half an hour or so, it will start right up like there was nothing wrong at all.

Its a 05 182 on 66k, all fluid levels are fine.
Any ideas?

 

[Ads29]

Could well be the starter motor playing up

 

[bloke]

There's nothing behind the steering wheel to make a ticking noise. Something under the bonnet?

 

[Rone]

Hi all, soo recently my car is becoming a bit of a dick to start. Go to start the car, so turn to position 1 with the key, get fuel pump relay or whatever, noise as per. Go to start, and nothing, no cranking no immobiliser light, sweet f/a. just a ticking from behind the steering wheel?

So after looking on here and other sites, i have took some steps to try to alleviate the issue:
New Battery
Clean throttle body
Clean TDC Sensor
And still no joy, but!!!

I have now noticed some things have to be in order for it to occur, when its cold, literally no issues at all fires right up. It is only if i have been driving it (at optimal temps, its never overheated) and give it full/near full throttle, once that journey has ended, it will not start at all no cranking blah blah blah. But if i leave it for half an hour or so, it will start right up like there was nothing wrong at all.

Its a 05 182 on 66k, all fluid levels are fine.
Any ideas?

Measure (with a digital multi meter) the positive pole on the starter motor backside (should be a red thick wire attached to it) is getting the batter voltage (around 12,5 volts) WHEN THE CAR REFUSES TO START.
If this test passes, then,,,
Get a few pieces of thick wire, a pair of starter cables perhaps, and use those to jump from battery negative terminal to the car chassis and the seconds cable to jump from battery negative terminal to a metal part on the engine block, perhaps as near the starter motor as possible. Turn the key and see if it start. If it does start, remove the jumps and turn key again, the car should refuse to start and only keeps clicking the starter motor relay.
If this test passes, then you have identified that there is a broken earth strap and when you turn the ignition to start position, the electricity goes to pull the starter motor bendix gear solenoid. But already this current is too much to cause a high enough voltage drop and the spring force pulls the bendix solenoid back again. Now as the solenoid is pulled back the spring force is decreased and the current is again able to pull the solenoid and this keeps repeating. The solenoid is bouncing back and forth.
But if that test fails and the jump earth leads do not make the car start, then I would suppose the starter motor is having an internal
short-circuit when hot, or something similar, which is causing it to pull too much current and make the starter bendix solenoid open up again. Making the relay bounce like earlier...
But if the clicking sound is coming from the left-side footwell (the UCH location), then then there is probably a fault with the UCH body electrics control module. (multi timer unit in the Haynes manual). Repairing that will require advanced soldering skills, but there are multiple companies on ebay that do it for pretty cheap bucks, in case you are not proficient with the soldering iron.

What is the immobilizer light doing when you are trying to start the car? When turning the key to the first positon (last prior to cranking engine), so that the dashboard is lit up, If the light goes from solid red to completely out in about three seconds from turning the key, then the immobilizer is working as it should. If the light stays constant red for longer than three seconds or keeps blinking, then the problem is not related to the starter motor but there is something wrong with your key or the UCH or its connections. Depending on what the immobilizer light is doing......