ClioSport.net

Register a free account today to become a member!
Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members through your own private inbox!

  • When you purchase through links on our site, we may earn an affiliate commission. Read more here.

Alternator Change, Day 2 of Ownership



  Elise, Trophy #31
Bugger.....

Day 2 of ownership of my little 182 Trophy, and we've hit a snag. Stopped mid journey, failed to start. Bumped it, and got home. Then didn't start once home, not even trying to, but found a thread about the imobiliser getting upset, and overcame that by cycling the key to position 1 a few times. It started (somewhat laboured)...

Bonnet up, hot electrical smell...

Test kit out, idling at 12.4v, then drops to 11.something with all the electrical things turned on (lights etc).

So... Can someone please point me in the direction of the "how to remove the alternator" thread, as looking at it, It looks as though they built the car around it, and that it's in there for life!

CHeers,
Mark F
 

Djw John

Scotland - South
ClioSport Area Rep
Before doing that it could be worthwhile sanding the main connector on the alternator and rechecking. Had it as low as 11v because of a rusty connector before!
 
If there's a hot electrical smell - check the wires on the alternator

The alternator sits right behind the manifold and is supposed to have a little heat shield. Sometimes the shield falls off and the wires cook, become fragile and start to fall apart.
Even with the shield in place it's quite common for the wiring to melt.

Might be able to cut the wire back, make a new end and save yourself a bigger bill and the hassle of removing the exhaust manifold!
 
You mean the starter Phil...

But a hot electrical smell is also a sign of a dead Alt, as confirmed by his voltage readings.

You need:
Alternator
Aux belt kit

I advise you remove the bumper and headlight. Makes access a lot easier for changing the aux tensioner.

Use the tensioner tool to remove the belt, then undo the top female torx bolt on the tensioner and the 8mm cap head bolt to remove the tensioner.

There is a lower idler with a 13mm bolt holding it on, you need to jack the engine up to line it up with he hole in the chassis-subframe mount. Get at it with a socket and extension bar.

Laser stir is held in with a 13mm at the top and a 16mm at the bottom.
 
  Elise, Trophy #31
Thanks for your tips everyone. CHecjked connections, and no joy, so fairly sure it will be alternator.....Hmmm... Sounds involved!

Last night in the half an hour or so I had before it got dark, I got the bumper off, which is a start!
 

Attachments

  • photo.JPG
    photo.JPG
    154.5 KB · Views: 96
  Elise, Trophy #31
Done! What a b*****d of a job! Releasing the aux belt tension was a mission! Resorted to a pry bar in the end (pikey I know). But all fixed! Now to start tweaking and returning the suspension!
 
  Elise, Trophy #31
*sigh* this is why I shouldn't reply to threads after midnight lol

Sorry for the confusion - glad you got it sorted!

Thanks Phil! I've heard that the starter is a horrible job. Back to 14.something volts, LOVELY!
Next job: Sort out the ride quality!
 


Top