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cambelt change guide??



  Clio Sport 172...
Has anybody done a guide for a cambelt change on a Clio 172?
I'm going to tackle it myself with help from my dad. (Good mechanical knowledge) but I would like something to drop back onto.
I'm lifting the engine out to carry out the work as there's other bits I want to do and also I want to give it a good clean.
I have all the tools needed (minus locking tools which I will purchase).
Would be greatful if someone could help
 
  Pug 206 SW, 172 CUP
No there isn't the traders are helpful but aren't gonna give their hard earned info away for free although they are helpful if you get stuck. Also this engine is annoyingly easy to balls up and suffers with even minor timing errors

If you really want to do the job do plenty of searches on here as there are a few tricks floating around regarding how much to torque the pulleys too, how to equalise the belt tension properly for example and how not to get the crank locking tool in a balancing hole. The Renault manual available on the net has a few errors in practice. This engine causes a fair few issues as the locking tools must fit without being forced and the tension must be equal and correct or it will be out.

Prepare yourself to be told a million times to go to a specialist.
 
  Clio Sport 172...
Yes as i posted this I found someone who had already asked the question and got shot down at the first hurdle!
The car dosnt really have major value to me as such and although money does not grow on trees i am prepared to have a go!
If it goes wrong then I tried.
Would just have been nice for a step by step but yes I suppose you right, there not just going to give away their trade.
 

Chrisgti6

ClioSport Club Member
  MR2,TT V6,Mini x 2
It's somewhere on here - if your local to me I have a laminated print out from the Renault technical guide that you can have.
 
  Pug 206 SW, 172 CUP
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  Clio Sport 172...
No I haven't done much research on this yet. This is the first place I have tried and where are you chrisgti6?? That would be very helpful.
 
  Pug 206 SW, 172 CUP
Copied that from an old thread on the subject before I got a car with the belts done. Also there is additional torque that is applied to one of the pulleys to find in one thread that makes sure it doesn't slip and I'm sure in the last 6 months a picture of an Inspection window on the gearbox somewhere for crank position was posted up in one thread. Someone had timed it up with the pin in a balance hole. Apply these to the Renault manual.

There are also plenty of threads on the tensioner and how the marks should line up.

You also need to make sure there is no play in the dephaser and fix any oil leaks in the vicinity.

If the dephaser has gone then an oil flush and change is a good idea.

Mine was done at a main dealer that does these properly and used a gates belt so up to you if you go for a gates or a Renault kit.
 
It is fairly straight forward if you follow the Renault pdf. There are no errors in it from what I've seen.
With the engine out it will be much easier.
Don't let CS put you off.
The pdf refers to 2 procedures one involves loosening the cam pulleys the other doesn't.
Undoing all 3 pulleys is the best way, but CS will tell you the procedure that does not loosen the cam pulleys is wrong. It isn't. Sure it relies on the timing being correct previously and that the new belt has the same characteristics as the old one. This is the same assumption that is made when doing a cambelt on a car that has keyed pulleys so is what happens with most cars.
 
  Pug 206 SW, 172 CUP
You can do it the Renault way with the pulleys locked as many have I'm sure if the timing was spot on (hence the large numbers of poor Dyno results and poor idles) and take the chance it was all perfect before and it won't move even a little bit once it all settles in (unlikely) but why not just loosen the ruddy pulleys and make sure it is all equal. Engines that have keyed pulleys are not that timing sensitive and can get away with it and so are no comparison.

Most of the 8 valve engines I've worked on (all keyed) use the same timing marks regardless even if you skim the head to it's limits as the tolerances were ridiculous. Played right into the hands of the tuning companies as your standard timing could be complete rubbish and then you'd get a performance cam and time it in properly with a vernier and then tune it further on a rolling road. You'd get fantastic gains if your engine was running pants before.

Some engines had pulleys with the keys in different positions so that for restricted race series use you could make sure the timing was spot on. Cars going to the shops didn't miss 5-10bhp.

For all we know when this person goes to install the tools he may, as many have found that the timing is already out and he'll have no choice but to loosen the pulleys anyway!

If the dephaser is worn he'll have no choice.

Use the Renaults guides. Follow the pointers that the traders have released over the years, use the correct tools and it will be fine. As I said if the tools fit properly at the end and the tensioner points where it should then the jobs a good'un.

Me personally if I'm doing something DIY I do it properly especially if I have the time to really go to town on checking everything.
 
  Clio Sport 172...
I appreciate all the help. And I'm sure everyone has their own way of doing this and as I have never done one before, I will be taking everyone's advice and applying it as I see its needed. I'm sure all will come to light as I start taking things apart :weary:
You may well see a rolling shell for sale on here in a few weeks :wink:
 
  MG ZR x2, Polo, CTR
I used it when I did mine and it was pretty much spot on.
Just read it a couple of times first before you dive it. And don't forget the 14mm allen key!
 
  Clio Sport 172...
OK cheers. May get confusing a bit as I'm lifting my engine out but that's pretty much what I needed
 

Dannyeff

ClioSport Club Member
  Clio 182 trophy
if you can take the engine out, am sure someone would be able to change it for you for a small fee? saves you messing about with something your unsure about.
 
  Clio Sport 172...
Possibly but then there's no satisfaction in getting someone to do it for me and I'm not learning anything by it either which to be honest is the whole point
 
  MG ZR x2, Polo, CTR
with the engine out and some patience it should be quite an easy job.
With the engine in, the lack of space and the constant up/down is a total PITA, especially if you get paranoid like me and triple check everything.
 
  172 Rally Car
Its really not that hard when you get going, most difficult bit is getting the inlet and exhaust pulleys tight- really hard to get an angle gauge in there
 
  172 Ph1/Scooby MY00
Fred at BTM was happy to show me how to do it. Problem is I'm not sure I wrote it all down right - doh! I have the pdf, if you want it as a guide just PM me.
 
  172 cup, Impreza P1
You can do it the Renault way with the pulleys locked as many have I'm sure if the timing was spot on (hence the large numbers of poor Dyno results and poor idles) and take the chance it was all perfect before and it won't move even a little bit once it all settles in (unlikely) but why not just loosen the ruddy pulleys and make sure it is all equal. Engines that have keyed pulleys are not that timing sensitive and can get away with it and so are no comparison.

Most of the 8 valve engines I've worked on (all keyed) use the same timing marks regardless even if you skim the head to it's limits as the tolerances were ridiculous. Played right into the hands of the tuning companies as your standard timing could be complete rubbish and then you'd get a performance cam and time it in properly with a vernier and then tune it further on a rolling road. You'd get fantastic gains if your engine was running pants before.

Some engines had pulleys with the keys in different positions so that for restricted race series use you could make sure the timing was spot on. Cars going to the shops didn't miss 5-10bhp.

For all we know when this person goes to install the tools he may, as many have found that the timing is already out and he'll have no choice but to loosen the pulleys anyway!

If the dephaser is worn he'll have no choice.

Use the Renaults guides. Follow the pointers that the traders have released over the years, use the correct tools and it will be fine. As I said if the tools fit properly at the end and the tensioner points where it should then the jobs a good'un.

Me personally if I'm doing something DIY I do it properly especially if I have the time to really go to town on checking everything.

Totally agree with this but one issue is when using a keyed crank pulley from a megane 225 and the rotation to equalise everything is not possible. I went for one for my turbo build so had to miss this step.
 
  Pug 206 SW, 172 CUP
Totally agree with this but one issue is when using a keyed crank pulley from a megane 225 and the rotation to equalise everything is not possible. I went for one for my turbo build so had to miss this step.
There is always one exception! I was completely referring to fully floating pulley setups.
 


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