Rust Flecks in the paint

[Scott™]

Hi guys

I gave the ST it's first coat of wax on the weekend and noticed some defects in the paint.

Upon close inspection over the whole car you can see flecks of rust, very very small. With a bit of elbow grease they eventually come free/dissolve. It looks like some pollutant that has rested on the car from maybe a near by refinery.

What would you recommend for its removal? Maybe IronX? It covers the whole car and some old fashioned elbow grease would take forever.

Scott

 

[Coby.]

Sounds like you need to do a full decon, Tar Remover, Iron X and the a good claying.

 

[JamesBryan]

Definitely a hit or two of IronX.

 

[Scott™]

Sounds like you need to do a full decon, Tar Remover, Iron X and the a good claying.

In what order mate? Or doesn't it matter?

 

[JamesBryan]

In what order mate? Or doesn't it matter?

IronX, Tar Remover, Clay

 

[Yellow Dave]

Depends on the level of decontamination. Iron contamination will sit within the paint, tar will sit over the top. If you're suffering from plenty of tar spots, tar remover first then iron remover, then clay.

 

[Coby.]

Agree with Dave, Might not have much Tar on the paintwork but for me it's always a stage I complete before Iron X.

 

[Gally]

Depends on the level of decontamination. Iron contamination will sit within the paint, tar will sit over the top. If you're suffering from plenty of tar spots, tar remover first then iron remover, then clay.

Always. Usually a double hit of Tardis and IX depending on car.

 

[JD]

Disagree on the double hit of Tardis - never seen evidence (in my own methods/detailing) of the use of a second hit. Spray, wipe, wash. I don't miss areas.

IronX however, yus.

 

[Yellow Dave]

depends on your methods and level of contamination in my billy ways. If it's really heavy, before it starts to dry out, I'll lightly rinse the 1st hit of tar remover then apply a 2nd layer before wiping down with a MF applicator.

Typically, it's never needed on a previously protected car

 

[Coby.]

Depends on how much contact you want to make I suppose, I removed some heavy tar with 1 hit of Tardis and then a rub with a MF Cloth which I'd sprayed with Tardis also, Others may prefer to take the very little contact approach when I suppose 2 individual hits of Tardis would be required.

 

[Short Norman]

Both the fiat 500's that we've had from new had something similar on them when we picked them up. Must have been something from where they had been stored (although we did buy them 2 years apart).

We sent the first one back to be cleaned again but there was still a few tiny flecks left.

 

[l33th3tr33]

Someone been grinding near the car I take it?

 

[Chip-mk1]

I covered a Corsa C in angle grinding sparks where I was doing some hasty mods to the brake calipers to one of my mk1 clios on the drive and it ended up looking like rusty sandpaper.

The mrs did a great job (cleaning = womens work, lol) of sorting it out with Iron-X and then clay, I was genuinely surprised how well it came up even for extreme damage like that.

 

[TheEvilGiraffe]

IronX + GoPro time lapse

 

[Chip-mk1]

IronX + GoPro time lapse

Should have done that with mine, it looked like it had been shot with a shotgun and was bleeding, lol.

 

[Scott™]

Thanks for the replies lads.

So you recommend tardis? Would you go for a soft or hard wax? It's ford paint btw.

I will get a picture up of the mess. I don't think it's from a grinder as it's all over the car in continuous weird places.

 

[TheEvilGiraffe]

Tardis will only dissolve tar (and other sticky stuff). IronX will do what you need it to do.

 

[Yellow Dave]

Thanks for the replies lads.

So you recommend tardis? Would you go for a soft or hard wax? It's ford paint btw.

I will get a picture up of the mess. I don't think it's from a grinder as it's all over the car in continuous weird places.

Tardis or oblitarate to remove tar, then ironx to remove the rusty iron spots, then ideally claying.

A soft or hard wax is purely to protect the paint, it refers to the texture of the wax. that's all down to personal preference and makes no difference to the make of car. if you are a beginner, look into a spray sealant like gtechniq c2 or autofinesse toughcoat for ease of use.

 

[g3mms]

My mums Fiat had the same. It was from when they transported the new cars on the trains the brake dust bedded into the paintwork. .the dealers actually paid for it ro be professionally clayed using industrial strengh clay as all the clay bars I tried didn't touch it.

 

[Gally]

Disagree on the double hit of Tardis - never seen evidence (in my own methods/detailing) of the use of a second hit. Spray, wipe, wash. I don't miss areas.

IronX however, yus.

Lols! Fa u ya ba!

 

[Yellow Dave]

My mums Fiat had the same. It was from when they transported the new cars on the trains the brake dust bedded into the paintwork. .the dealers actually paid for it ro be professionally clayed using industrial strengh clay as all the clay bars I tried didn't touch it.

this is were dealers and a lot of valet places fall short. did they try a proper iron remover? I dare say a heavy or industrial clay will have left plenty of marring and other marks on the paint.

 

[JD]

Lols! Fa u ya ba!

I'll never get round the whole car, so do it in stages. Spray a panel, spray the next, spray a third, go back to first and wipe, spray fourth, go to second and wipe, spray fifth etc etc. This means it doesn't dry, I cover the entire car and don't miss areas, but also leave the product long enough to work its best.