yes sorry another starting problem......help..

[dwizzle1]

hi ya all well after reading hundreds of threads in still no better off just a few hundred quid out of pocket....

i too have this starting problem but mine is every moring and at 5am having to turn over the car for about 45mins just aint going down well in my little street.. after using the misses car for work ill get home at 4pm and the car starts with maybe three or four trys... the engine light is displayed on the dash.. and wont go..

now i have changed near on everyting so im eliminating the following...

coil pack,
leads,
plugs,
tdc sensor,
car now has full k-tec stealth system with k tec decat pipe,
full pump active,
and immobilizer deactivated......

i had the car hooked up to a snap on diognostics machine today and the following codes came up
56- connection between ecu and air conditioning.
13- circuit lambda sensor
with the following information included.. front bounced from 451 to 566 with TPS 22
rear stayed at 403 with TPS 9
idle load- yes Full load- No

any idea what this all means.. im guessing its a fault with lambda sensor but which one...??

when reading diognosics code explanation
13- means camshaft position activator intake left front bank 1 curcuit fault
56- means heated oxygen sensor :S

neither explanation is helping me out at all.. any cave man terms out there that'll get me on the right track....

 

[MicKPM]

Okay, this is why I hate the older Snap-On diagnostic bricks as they don't use generic EODB codes. Those initial codes mean nothing in the real world so diagnosis is even more difficult but what its roughly saying is:

"13" - There is a wiring fault between the ECM and the AC system.
The ECM needs to know when the AC button is pressed so it can ramp up the idle speed to compensate for the additional drain on the engines rotational speed thus making it work harder. Unless your AC isn't working I'd discount this code as being relevant at this time but broken wires to the AC Compressor is a common failure on all Renaults of this era so could be the root cause of this.

"56" - There's an H02 sensor fault and its given you a snap shot of data which has raised the fault.
This is why we use generic fault codes that begin with "P" as there are so many different sub codes its hard to narrow down sensor faults vs wiring faults. However, the live data snapshot info seems to suggest a problem with the pre-cat H02 heater circuit as it's pretty slow to respond looking at the range (The post-cat H02 should remain stable if the cat is doing its job correctly). Check the wiring to the pre-cat sensor as it's common for it to catch on the exhaust and burn thru or even rub thru where it clips to the underside of the body. If all checks out remove the sensor and give it a blast with some kind of spray cleaner (Brake disc cleaner will work but NOT WD40 or similar kind of oil) then clear the codes and take it for a spirited drive to see if the code returns. If it doesn't great, if it does it needs a new sensor.

What bothers me is that the H02 should have little to no effect upon initial cold start ignition... as soon as the engine is running, even at idle, its value is taken in to account to help correctly alter the fuelling but thats another story and why it has a heater elelment. Unless there's an obvious wiring fault I don't think a new sensor will cure the poor cold start condition. When it was on the diagnostics did you check to see if the ECM was seeing a good rotation signal? You say above you have replaced the 'Crank Position Sensor' but this might not have been the actual problem and I believe its wiring loom may be the real issue... for which there is an upgrade available.

Mick

 

[Jonny1*2]

Where are you based mate?

 

[dwizzle1]

im in dagenham in essex... believe me a rstuner is so on the shopping list.. i have sourced a lambda sensor for 69quid from GSF two min walk from my house (result) but now i dont know if to buy it... the sensor is showing signs of being on its way out or gone as the car seems to be struggling with a good mix, eg from first to second no point putting foot flat out cos car sounds like its drowning in petrol... i have the odd pop and bang from exhaust butr just put this down to a bad mixture..

what do you suggest for a cold start problem? as near on everything is new... in regards to the new loom i have upgraded to the blue already.

went out about half hour ago and after a few attempts the car started so i took it round the block and it car out twice. once it took a few tries again and foot to the floor while turning key.. second time i was rolling so i managed to almost bump it. parked it up... and im starting to loose heart with it now...

 

[dwizzle1]

also i hear de cat pipes eat sensors for fun... would the sensor have an affect on the car starting at all????