Recent content by scotiamr2t

@FrogJam Motorsport be interesting to see what you make of the ABS unit. I have been researching the Renault ABS units wiring to see about putting ABS back into my ph1 with a pedalbox. From the research I’ve done so far it looks like it will work without the Renault UCH & ECU

You won’t miss the high revs of the K20, I made the switch from K20 to K24 frank in my PH1 172 and the extra torque and slight increase in peak power means you don’t miss the extra 1000 or so revs from the K20

Looking to see if anyone has or can direct me to a pin out for the ABS pump ECU plug. looking into the possibility of making it work minus all other Renault wiring.

@Jekyll where was the conversion kit from?

I have a set from autodoc, TYC are the manufacturer I’m sure. Decent quality and fit as they should

@Stu. Who painted it

This image shows the sump clearance with the engine mounted, early on i knew i wanted to make an engine and chassis loom but the decision on which ecu to go with took a while. I finally after speaking to numerous people, made the decision to go with ECU master. So loom was made to suit this...

As i had gone to the effort of making the shell, engine and gearbox pretty clean and replaced all the bolts or had the old ones stripped and plated. I couldn't have put the old crusty rear beam etc back on so i had the rest of the bolts stripped and plated. The rear beam and other components...

After some mechanical and wiring work on the Healey in the form of changing from dynamo to alternator and a few other modern improvements for European road trips. The Healey was put back in the garage until covid allowed a Euro trip! so it was back to the clio, first steps were to rebuild the...

Christ i forgot I had this thread! Safe to say it is well out of date. after years of reliable track and road miles, in winter 2019 i decided I fancied a change or rather hangs if engine. So the F4R was removed and sold, next up……..K20 of course! base engine was purchased from stuart...

@Greeny. i cancelled my order for 2 sets as they told me, at the very earliest they “might” make it to the production line end of February but most likely later. I’d rather pay a bit more than wait tbh.

@Greeny. They have always been 2 separate companies, but rimstock made wheels branded team dynamics. Now after rimstock was bought over, Team dynamics have brought out there own “pro race” wheel! All very confusing. Rimstock suggested legal action is afoot, but who knows.

i would presume he means after it’s been painted/powdercoated (although best practice would have been to mask it off before coating). The mating faces between beam and stub axle should be metal to metal. With no paint/powdercoat on these surfaces.

I was in the same boat as you. It seems from speaking to rimstock, they make the old pro race 1.2’s (or claim they are in production at least). Yet team dynamics are who make the new pro race LT wheel. so 2 separate companies.

tubular front cross member makes engine removal so much easier. That’s what I have done, all be it I have a tubular subframe with no bar across the front so also have an engine cradle that allows me to wheel the engine in and out with front cross member removed.