Recent content by TheBandit

My MOT centre shrugged and said "bring it in and we will find out...." Thanks pal I think it needs to be caged with harnesses minimum as they replace the airbag, bonus points if it's stripped as nobody sane does that to a road car

Box sections under the car about a foot in from the front sills behind the subframe plates, I use a piece of wood on the jack. I have seen people jack up using the subframe directly but some have experienced bending. Lifting the back can be done from the rear beam as @Matt Cup suggests

Helicoil the helicoil

15 seconds of ugga-duggas should sort it out

I have a metal elbow, not an RS2 inlet, but use the 120mm PRORAM cylindrical filter It's thin enough to get in and out without removing the battery (just)

As long as its 4x100 60.1mm bore with the same rolling radius it will be fine (probably 195/55/15, loads of online calculators online to check). Probably best looking for a 15" alloy or steel wheel from a non-RS, or get like-for-like as @Advikaz suggests.

Best thing to do, ECU is mounted on the back of the rocker that will need changing, and the TB wiring is integrated into the thick rocker loom Spiteful piece of french engineering

https://www.renaultbreakers.co.uk/store/Renault-Clio-MK2-2001-2006-12-16v-Complete-Induction-Kit-D4F-712/00030869/ K&N or custom made plate adapter for a 712 is the easiest route.

Do you love the car? Pay for the work Want to try something new? Somebody on here will snap it up It's a sort of lose-lose situation, either you pay for the work to up the car value or the value drops significantly because it needs so much work As @daveski says the maintenance is nothing out...

I find it hard to be at meets that early unless I have plans afterwards for the day. If I can make it to one will turn up earlier then - might get better as it gets warmer into the year 🤞

Not mine but I live near, never heard of Slip and Grip until now. What time do they start and when did you arrive out of interest?

300 looks great but as mentioned 280 would make life easier. I have 3mm between calliper and wheel and stuck using 16's. I bought the car with, but if I was doing it again I would go 280 for greater wheel selection.

That gap in the top mount is normal. Go solid top mounts plus BCs if you are worried

My understanding is these engines are quite sensitive to timing, I personally wouldn't risk it as it will be wrong for years after the fact. Not seen any 'good' reviews over the years on being on the forum but happy to be told otherwise

I find this quite important when I get my belts done