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Check for play in the steering,, while wheel raised get someone to rock the steering wheel while you hold the tyre left and right, If there is play you'll feel it - there should be none,(or maybe a very very tiny amount (if you feel any then bushes or a track rod is most likely culprit.
@linoliveira
I'd like to do the same do you have any wiring documentation? What HUD are you using?
@TheDisapprovingBrit
The reason acc on isn't used is because the uch controls when the radio is on (in other words if you lock the car or leave the radio on it times it out so no flat battery. If...
If everything else is working it will almost certainly be corrosion inside the bulb holder. A multimeter may not read if there is sufficient corrosion to prevent a good contact with the metal. Just make sure nothing is switched on when you try to clean the contacts,
So the front was working but flashing fast? Glad it's sorted.
If you want to learn how to use a multimeter to check continuity watch this, it'll come in useful.
You don't need an expensive multimeter but check first it has the bleep facility.
This one < link is good enough and not very expensive.
The front and rear earth connections on the clusters are not connected so if the problem was just an earth wire on the back, the front should still work, so either something is shorted or miswired or there's a fuse blown. Side fusebox, F22 15A have you checked that fuse, 4th row down, 6 along, blue
It sounds like you’ve lost the connection to chassis from the light cluster, have you checked continuity from chassis to the actual lamp cluster? Do you have a multimeter?
Isn’t it more likely that the gearbox oil comes in 1L bottles and the coolant in 5L?
I’m not sure what’s worse, hypoid 80 in the coolant or coolant in the gearbox…
Proof of the pudding and all that the gearbox wouldn’t have become difficult. I hope he hasn’t changed the coolant yet.