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Clio 172 race mods
- Thread starter JackCrewe
- Start date
Mr Underhill
ClioSport Club Member
Happy to chip in.
Keeping the engine standard, they respond really well with the right supporting mods, is the way to go. Group N timing and a custom map at EFI will make a noticeable difference without compromising reliability. You'll be able to stretch its legs on longer straights without getting bogged down in 5th gear. No real BHP gains, but much better overall usable torque. Wouldn't recommend for daily road use.
Weight reduction is the best bang-for-buck if it's going to stay track-focused – strip it properly and be ruthless, without compromising safety. You’ll feel the benefits more than adding power. Happy to share some tips if you want to DM.
Half cage - to start with - proper buckets, and 6-point harnesses are essential – not just for safety but for consistency in your driving too. Being properly held in place changes everything. If you're planning to go full race car eventually, then a full cage is definitely worth considering – better protection and chassis stiffness, especially if you're going to compete.
On brakes – the standard calipers are more than up to the job, but ducting makes a noticeable difference on longer sessions. There are some Corvette-style ducts on the Frogjam Motorsport site that work really well – proper fit-and-forget solution. Pad choice matters too, so let us know what you’re currently running.
Tyre, wheel and geo setup is key. 15s are a good call to keep tyre costs down, and the TD Pro race 1.2s are proven. I’ve had good results with both Yoko A052s and some of the more affordable options too – happy to go into detail on those.
Roll centre correction and a decent diff (Quaife or similar) really wakes the chassis up.
There's lots more you can do, but these changes alone will give you a well-sorted and reliable track car without diving into race engine territory.
Keeping the engine standard, they respond really well with the right supporting mods, is the way to go. Group N timing and a custom map at EFI will make a noticeable difference without compromising reliability. You'll be able to stretch its legs on longer straights without getting bogged down in 5th gear. No real BHP gains, but much better overall usable torque. Wouldn't recommend for daily road use.
Weight reduction is the best bang-for-buck if it's going to stay track-focused – strip it properly and be ruthless, without compromising safety. You’ll feel the benefits more than adding power. Happy to share some tips if you want to DM.
Half cage - to start with - proper buckets, and 6-point harnesses are essential – not just for safety but for consistency in your driving too. Being properly held in place changes everything. If you're planning to go full race car eventually, then a full cage is definitely worth considering – better protection and chassis stiffness, especially if you're going to compete.
On brakes – the standard calipers are more than up to the job, but ducting makes a noticeable difference on longer sessions. There are some Corvette-style ducts on the Frogjam Motorsport site that work really well – proper fit-and-forget solution. Pad choice matters too, so let us know what you’re currently running.
Tyre, wheel and geo setup is key. 15s are a good call to keep tyre costs down, and the TD Pro race 1.2s are proven. I’ve had good results with both Yoko A052s and some of the more affordable options too – happy to go into detail on those.
Roll centre correction and a decent diff (Quaife or similar) really wakes the chassis up.
There's lots more you can do, but these changes alone will give you a well-sorted and reliable track car without diving into race engine territory.
Yh its stripped with race seats, 6 points and full cage is waiting to go in.
Looking to do the diff at some point.
Pads im currently running ferrodo ds2500 but might go to PBS race pads. Tyre wise currently with nankang ar1s. More just looking for best places to get geo parts and what to go for not sure if ITBs are generally needed.
Looking to do the diff at some point.
Pads im currently running ferrodo ds2500 but might go to PBS race pads. Tyre wise currently with nankang ar1s. More just looking for best places to get geo parts and what to go for not sure if ITBs are generally needed.
Mr Underhill
ClioSport Club Member
My first track cars engine was stock with Group N timing and EFi map, a few other small upgrades but essentially stock. My last car had an engine dynamics race build, ITBs, Gen 90 (226 bhp). I wouldn’t bother putting ITBs on a stock engine. It’ll sound nice, but that’s about it.
I‘d only put them on a proper race build, but looking back, my stock engine was just as much fun. Do the fundamentals first before the engine.
I‘d only put them on a proper race build, but looking back, my stock engine was just as much fun. Do the fundamentals first before the engine.
Last edited:
Mr Underhill
ClioSport Club Member
It’s possible I guess, but I’m not familiar with any garages who do both. On the couple of occasions I had mine done, the garage did the timing, then arranged with the tuner - about an hour away - to map it the same day.
Thanks mate, my guess is get the group n timing sorted and then have it mapped to suit.
Mr Underhill
ClioSport Club Member
The only caveat is that they run like a pig before the mapping.
